Transition.

“We waste so many days waiting for the weekend. So many nights wanting morning. Our lust for future comfort is the biggest thief of life.” – Joshua Glenn Clark

Writing makes me feel better.

This blog has sat idle for a long time. I miss writing so I have decided to write. Sometimes, life is that simple.

I recently picked up my life and moved it to the Northwest (sometimes, life isn’t so simple). I currently reside in Vancouver, BC, at my favorite community space, the neighborhood library. I think part of me doesn’t want to get a computer of any sort because then I wouldn’t get the privilege of walking through the rain and feeling the relief of a library. And because I know I can’t have nice things.

Saying goodbye to their baby girl for the 178th time!

I am out here in Canada for a 1-year diploma program to become a Registered Holistic Nutritionist. I have been in school for a month and absolutely adore it. We had “spring break” a couple weeks ago and was pissed because I would have preferred be in class.

This past month of transition and “settling in” has been super weird for me, and almost a blur, so I thought it would behoooooove me to get my thoughts out of my head and onto a piece of paper. Turns out I don’t own any paper so here I am on the inter-webs. When I write, my thoughts begin to make sense — so that is the main drive of getting back in the saddle. I would hate for any moment in life to go by and feel like a blur, so this is my effort to gain back the last month.

I thrive on moving to places that I have never been, and to places where I don’t know anyone. It really gets me going, gets me excited. The nerves set in a few days before I hop on the plane, but they don’t last long. There is some fear of the unknown involved, but after hiking the PCT, I think I’ve become numb to that feeling. It only took 159 consecutive days of terror to desensitize it, but totally worth it because I didn’t really have time for “the fear of the unknown” this time around, I had goodbye parties to throw for myself, ya know? I highly recommend this bulletproof method.

My arrival into Canada was a “typical julie” — I arrived with nowhere to stay. My sublet cancelled last minute, so a friend connected me with another friends husbands sister (??)…basically, it was amazing. I arrived at their haunted house at 3:30AM and followed her instructions to go upstairs and sleep in the room with the 2 single beds. It was a very old house and there were padlocks on all the doors. The room was flooded with Pokemon, sleeping bags, a Darth Vador alarm clock, and an adorable welcome note with a banana and orange juice. It was creaky, creepy, and hilarious. I loved every second of that arrival. I woke up, met these amazingly generous ladies, and was given coffee and a scone. I should have seen something like this coming. I mean, on my first day of school I woke up on an Oreo themed pillowcase and in a room filled with stuffed animals and Super Mario posters, how could I not be excited after that! I clipped my bangs back, threw on my pastel pink stirrup pants, loaded my arms up with neon scrunchies, made a quick bologna and american cheese sammy and was ready to roll! It was all so bizarrely wonderful, and I felt right at home during those first few days with them.

After lots of effort, I found a fantastic sublet (although it ends May 1st :(.) I live in a 1bdr in the same neighborhood as my school. This is where it gets tricky. I thought I really wanted to live alone, say goodbye to roommates, and really focus on school. Now I am not so sure. It’s great most of the time, but at other times I feel like I have isolated myself. Here I am in a brand new city, in a brand new country, and I decide to live alone. It has its major perks, but with not having started work yet, I kind of feel a bit useless outside of school.

Speaking of work, I got a job, worked one shift, hated it, stressed about it for 3 days, and quit. I’m a quitter. I’m a “one-shifter.” It feels freakin’ fabulous. I am really bad at quitting things because I become loyal quite quickly. That goes for just about anything in my life. So even though they probably didn’t give a shit, I did. As if I’m THAT cool eh? Good news is that I just started another job. Something less stressful, with better hours, and in a more casual environment. It comes with free pastries and coffee. I should be just fine. Although having to set aside 3 minutes to walk there is going to become a real bear.

In terms of my social status, it’s going. I really like my classmates, and know in time there will be a few who will turn into really good friends. I am not one to rush into things (to an extent), and have found that the people I connect with right off the bat usually are the ones that also fizzle out the quickest. Good friends take time, and good friends are worth that time.

Haha what a depressing photo choice after that paragraph! Oh well, keeping it!

I have, however, been taken under the wing of a 60-year-old Aussie. Of course he came here on holiday 12 years ago and decided to stay to become part of the Canadian Snow-Shoeing team. He lives in my building and is the most helpful, enthusiastic, ultra-running, coffee loving guy in the world. I actually got home from work on my Birthday and there was a bag of race swag hanging on my doorknob from him. He designs race courses all over Vancouver and leads a trail running group twice a week. Since he is always working on running events, he drives a Chrysler MiniVan. He calls it a “shit-box” (remember, HEAVY Australian accent) and we ride around town in that baby. He has introduced me to a ton of crazy adventurous people and has me completely stressed out with how many trails I need to explore this summer. A true friend.

Striking a pose

I sat down thinking I was going to dissect my feelings on loneliness, uselessness, and how we’ve only gotten 70 hours of sun in March (do you realize what that DOES TO A PERSON?!?). I guess that’s why I write though, because all those things really aren’t weighing on me as heavily as I thought. Upon further reflection, I have actually done way more than I thought this month. I need to learn how to give myself a break from time to time, I am for sure my own toughest critic. I have so many amazing things going on, and it’s such an exciting time.

I will continue to join clubs that interest me, continue to say “yes” to everything I am invited to, continue to remind myself that both good things take time and that there is a thing called an “off-season” for a reason. I don’t need to be living on the edge 100% of the time to feel like I am squeezing the most out of life.

Moments spent in transition are important, transformative, and such a mysterious time of growth. As long as I am appreciating this time, the growth will continue, and the opportunities will come. I feel like I just opened up a book of blank pages and jumped on in.

Jesus take the wheel.

 

Proud.

2,658 Miles            159 Days          36 Showers         57 Avocados      

489,418′ Elevation Gain

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“If you’ve done it right you’ll love where you are”

Note: I formatted the pictures to be upright on a desktop. This is a long post, if you have a desktop I recommend reading this on there. It won’t look so unkempt. Although, I’m sure no matter what you do they will still be upside down. Good grief. Care about you!

Want to know a secret? I have been jotting down notes for this blog post since July. Whenever I would get a deep emotional thought, I would type it in my notes really quickly. Looking back at all of my brainstorming I can’t help but laugh. I never stopped to type these things in my phone, so I remember tripping over rocks and roots just trying to secure this INCREDIBLE thought before it was forgotten. Nothing in there makes sense, but it brings back a wave of lovely memories.

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All done!

All done!

I have been home in New York for a month. More specifically, Hopewell Junction, Home of the Honey Baked Ham! Jokes about this Honey Baked Ham got me through some dull times on the trail, so I couldn’t end this all without re-mentioning this self-appointed hometown lore.

Too early in the season to be advertising for the specific "Honey-Baked" yet.

Too early in the season to be advertising for the specific “Honey-Baked” yet.

My transition from on-trail to off-trail has been tough, but I saw it all coming. One of the reasons I was hesitant to attempt the PCT is because of the withdrawal I knew I would experience afterwards. I was nervous for the reintegration, the void, the shift in perspective, feeling different etc. When I was able to let go of that fear and convince myself that without a doubt, the journey would be worth all the difficulties encountered when I was back home, I was able to fully commit myself. I’m not sure if I’ve ever been so excited about anything than in February and March when I was planning for the PCT. I talked about it all day long. It didn’t matter if people wanted to hear about it, or if I even knew the person for more than 25 seconds, I still filled them in on the latest. I remember hiding in the beer cage at work reading gear reviews on down jackets. “Oh, you want some more coffee sir? I’m sorry it’s going to have to wait, I am in the middle of finding the lightest and most cost-efficient umbrella that I will carry for 5 months but won’t use until the very last day of my hike.” Life was so good those last 2 months in Jackson, so good. My energy and enthusiasm about the hike were the telling indicators that I was doing exactly what I was suppose to be doing. I have never followed my heart so surely.

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Physically, my body has fired back with a lot of rebellion this past month. After 5+ months of feeding it truck load after truck load of endorphins, I suddenly stopped. I became an adrenaline junkie this summer, and it was all too real. I was never tired during the day when I would be out hiking. Between the movement, the challenge, the air quality, the pure water, the ridges, the views, the fords, the snow, the trees, the animals, the community  — I was riding a high that was unsustainable, and I knew it.

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Day 2 post-trail I began to eat healthy. Basically, once my sister flew back to San Francisco and stopped feeding me donuts, bagels, and fish and chips. I thought I had it all figured out, I would detox! I would clean my body of all the processed instant junk I’ve been feeding it all summer, I’ll feel GREAT! Well, the last 2 nights in Vancouver I stayed with Richard and Jean, remember them from Crater Lake? I always knew there was a reason a wildfire erupted and caused me to hitch a ride around the rim. Meeting them was that reason. They welcomed me into their home, cooked amazing dinners and told me all about life in Vancouver. They are heroes.

The morning after.

The morning after.

Richard and Jean!

Richard and Jean!

I remember the last night with them I actually said the words, “I’m sorry guys, but I’m feeling pretty tired, this is weird.” It was around 8:00 and it was a tired I hadn’t experienced in a really long time, it was a normal sort of tired. You know, the tired you feel after work. It was that moment when things started going south for me.

I flew home the next day and began my sleeping expedition. My dad picked me up at La Guardia and with the amount of traffic and apparent “idiots,” as my dad calls them, it was a rude realization that I was back in New York. I felt sick from all the beeping and lights and stop and go traffic. Bless his heart for having to do that ALL the time, with his 3 daughters living on the West Coast, Bob is the family chauffeur and we all could not be more grateful for him. I got home and my mom gave me the biggest hug she has ever given me. She actually held on to it for as long as possible. I suppose she was a bit worried this summer. I inhaled the lasagna she made, devoured some ice cream with peanut butter and began my hibernation.

Sleep. It’s all my body wanted. It was time to heal and repair, and that was only going to happen if I was asleep. It was unreal. Easily 12 hours a night, sometimes 14-15. I sleep like a needle, surrounded by 5 huge pillows I want nothing to do with and only use one ratty old one, thinner than a crepe. Comfortable, I am so unbelievably comfortable. During the day I would be in a fog, just wanting to sleep more. I began to exercise right away, working on my strength and going out for little shake-out runs. I felt pretty miserable. I continued to eat healthy until healthy food became nauseating. I no longer wanted it, couldn’t stand the sight or thought of it. No more eggs, broccoli, bananas, avocados, no more. If I DID have an appetite, it would be for clif bars and frozen pizza. Instant noodles perhaps? I had a terrible headache all day long, would throw up if I ate the wrong thing, and not to be outdone by everything else going wrong, I had the shits.

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I now realize my mistake. I dove into it all too fast. Too clean, too fast. I should have slowly reintegrated those foods into my diet throughout the course of a month. Here I am thinking I am doing myself the biggest favor, honoring my body and trying to level out the nutrient playing field, but instead I shocked it, and it rebelled big time. What I should of done was cook up some fresh veggies and put them in the middle of 2 clif bars. A sandwich. Balance.

My favorite 2 words

My favorite 2 words

2 weeks later I finally started feeling better, and also finally started to break some bad trail habits. No more candy in bed, toe touch. Yes, it is undesirable, but also completely unnecessary. I am currently doing a lot of strength work and doing little cardio. When I do do cardio, it is speed work. I’ll be out for a casual run and start sprinting, or I’ll find a hill and start doing repeats. I am tapping back into an energy system that I had completely neglected for 6 months. It feels really good.

The mental side of reintegration is the harder one to cope with. The physical stuff left me fascinated. I love listening to my body and monitoring how every little thing makes me feel. I had never felt that way before so it was all new and exciting, even though I felt like garbage. The mental side of things began 2 weeks after the trail. I began to feel “the void,” and longed for the trail life. I was very unmotivated, very low energy, very distant. This is not the person I want to be, and not the person my parents deserve to live with. I was a bum. I hated it.

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I fought and fought the internal battles trying to break the cycle and snap out of it. Perspective always, always helps. I thought about how lucky I am to have a house and parents that welcomed me back in. I thought about how many people are in debt after the trail and couch surf until they find a job. I thought about my friends who went back to SF and back to the corporate world, a completely different reentry than mine, but our transitional difficulties both the same. And of course, I think about how many people don’t have a home at all, are starving, and wake up to a shower of bombs everyday. Yes, I usually always go there. Perspective. Gratitude. Toe Touch.

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Now that this roller-coaster ride seems to be on its last couple of turns, I am feeling much better. I am a much more relaxed person when it comes to most things. I actually enjoy getting stuck behind school busses because I love the enthusiasm the kids have when they run off the bus, I have a lot more patience for things I cannot control, I treat my body with a much higher level of grace, I am the slowest driver in the world, I smile and say hello to everyone (particularly people who are wearing their bad day on their face) and I definitely don’t have the “it’s the end of the world” mentality. I have been through far too much to complain about anything material now. Life is difficult without that direct purpose we were so used to out on the trail. You wake up and know exactly what you had (wanted) to do, and you made progress towards your goals everyday. That is a really significant feeling to lose hold of and to suddenly replace it with empty days. You fall in love with no one particular thing out there, you fall in love with everything. Then one day, it’s all gone. That’s where the void can eat you alive if you let it.

What helped me through this past month was movement, catching up with friends, and staying focused on my goals. It was tough coming back home after the PCT and starting from scratch. If I had returned to my pre-trail life in Jackson, I know it would have been a much easier transition. But I also would have been sucked back into the beautiful Peter Pan vortex of Jackson Hole and probably would have kept pushing everything back a season, a year, a few years. Boy do I miss that town.

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A popular question I get asked is how I dealt with the boredom. This is also one of the main reasons I thought I could never thru-hike, I pictured myself quitting because of the long days, and even longer weeks. Turns out, rhythm played an important role. I had my system, my routine, and after the first day back on trail, I gained my momentum and was able to enjoy it all. Oregon and Washington were the hardest for me. Oregon because there’s not much climbing and not much to look at, and Washington only because I was 4 months in and even though it was challenging and rewarding, I wanted nothing more to do with myself. I could have thrown my mind off a cliff and not cared too much.

Other than singing songs in my head (scroll down to read the list of “most songs sung in toe touches tiny little brain”), I would think about what I could do for other people. Before I went off-trail for Lauras bachelorette party in Montana, Kelly told me I was in charge of cooking one brunch. Literally, for 300 miles, I would allow myself to brainstorm the brunch for 2 hours each day. That was fun for me. I ended up scrambling eggs, slicing avocados, and making a cinnamon roll french toast casserole, if you were wondering. But the most helpful tactic I used was devising plans to surprise my friends with weird stuff along the trail. It all started when I sent Spoon a Screech shirt to Kennedy Meadows. He was so confused and had no idea where it came from. First he credited his dad, then his best friend from back home. It wasn’t suppose to be a surprise, but he was so happy about it that I decided to let his mind wander — essentially doing him a big favor, now he could think about who sent him this shirt for the next couple hundreds miles – how thoughtful of me!

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After that experience, I sent Centerfold a Straight Outta Cactus Cooler shirt to Yosemite. It was sleeveless and over-sized of course, and the content completely making fun of his addiction to the soda. After that I had gone ahead of my friends, but decided to keep it up. I hit Chuckles next, with a shirt that was sure to blow my cover, but I loved it so much I sent it to her anyways. It was maroon, 100% heavy cotton and read, “Every Brunette Needs a Blonde Best Friend.” If you haven’t picked up on our abnormal friendship yet, Chuckles gives me a lot of grief for being a tall blonde. One Halloween I was Daphne and she was Velma (also of note, her husband Spoon was Rosie the Riveter that year). I had to capitalize on this shirt opportunity.

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Lastly I made Camel a shirt. As much time as I spent googling “T-shirts with pipe gates on them,” my search results came up empty. Camel has an obsession with pipe gates, which in turn became a Mile 55 obsession with pipe gates. We walked through so many in the desert that at night we would replay the squeakiest ones for all of the world to hear. As we hiked we would play the game “What does the pipe gate say?!?” “EEEEEeeeeEEEEeEeeEEEEeEEEeE.” It was a game meant to wake you back up. Worked every time. So, I made a shirt for Camel with a picture of a pipe gate that we walked through at Mile 555.55, I kid you not. Go hike the PCT and tell me there is NOT a pipe gate at that mile. I dare you. Funny part is, they are all just realizing now that I was the secret sender. Whatta buncha ding dongs huh!

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I also had 2 friends get married on the trail and they ended up a couple weeks behind me, so I would think about how I could surprise them with gift cards at the town bakeries, or hidden messages of congratulations in trees. Point being, if you are ever having a hard time, do something for someone else. Get out of your own head, and do something funny or thoughtful for a friend or stranger. If it works while hiking hundreds of miles in an underwhelming green tunnel, it can work to brighten up a morning or 2.

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Sometimes I wonder how I hiked the whole thing. I mean I had little to no experience with any of my gear. I had 2 straps on my backpack that swung around loosely all summer. It wasn’t until Washington when I realized they probably are there for a purpose. There are also strings all over my rain fly to my tent that I have no idea what they are for. Again, I just let them hang out. You can’t control a lot of what happens out there, but you do get to choose your attitude to it all. You get to choose how to react in the hard times, and how much enthusiasm you are going to greet each day with. One big fear of mine going into this trail was if I would start to feel like I was wasting my time. I love helping others, and I was scared I would get to a point where I would feel selfish, where I would start to feel like I wasn’t making a difference anywhere.

My biggest takeaway from this journey has been how untrue that really was. I have never felt more looked upon, more important in my whole life, and I owe that all to my friends and family. Through my photos and this blog, I actually became more connected with people than I ever thought I could be. This trail has enriched all of my friendships from back home, and I have never felt closer to all of them. I received so many packages and letters of love, encouragement and support, some of which came from people I haven’t seen in years. My friend Danika, who was my roommate in Australia for a semester, wrote and recorded a song for me. Naturally, I listened to it before bed one night in Washington and cried myself to sleep in thankfulness. It’s the off-trail beauty that I love to think about the most. How many connections I made while hitch-hiking, while sitting next to a Marty at the breakfast counter, while running through the grocery stores loading up on energy bars and avocados. The trail town community, the on-trail community, and the off-trail community have all surpassed my predictions wildly. I couldn’t have asked for a better batch of relationships, both new and reclaimed. My life has been enriched because of all of you. All of you weirdos, I should say. God I’m so lucky. (only a few pictured).

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“Soooo, how WAS it?!?!” — the most frequently asked question. I get it, I would ask the same thing initially. Some people dive deeper into it, others let you give a quick answer and then change subjects so fast you forgot you just got back from the journey of a lifetime. I guess my answer has been “amazing, incredible, phenomenal, the BEST thing I have ever done with my time.” I don’t expect people to get it. No one will understand it unless they have done it themselves, and that’s more than okay. I don’t understand a lot of what other people do, so I would never expect someone to geek out on this adventure as much as I do.

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But seriously, how do you explain the landscape of the desert? Hiking 700 miles in an environment brand new to you? Adjusting your body to the weight of a pack with 5 days of food and 7 liters of water in it? Being completely water-insecure and always praying the next source isn’t dried up? How do you explain drinking green horse water or scraping at stagnant shallow puddles trying to avoid the bugs and then sitting in the extreme heat filtering it one half liter at a time? Going to bed every night hopeful nothing is poking a hole in your gear, and hoping not to step on a rattlesnake when you get up to pee for the 5th time? How do you explain walking through underpasses, over highways, losing footing up the sandy, windy climbs, and trying effortlessly not to let the wind turbines drive you crazy? Always dehydrated, always avoiding lizards, always in awe of how much better this is than what you expected. Always caught off-guard by the harsh unrelenting beauty of the desert.

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How do you explain the tenacity required for the Sierra? Waking up at 4am, putting on every layer you own, navigating your way across, up and down miles and miles worth of snowfields? Climbing straight up icy walls because that’s where the boot-pack leads, and without the boot-pack, you’d still be lost out there. How do you explain reaching the top of a mountain and knowing that one false step, or one act of bad luck will send you tumbling down towards the ice covered lake at the bottom? Fording rivers so intense that it is a miracle you got across it, but leaves you sick with worry about your friends who are a couple days behind you. How do you explain the temperature fluctuations your body has to adapt to by freezing your butt off every morning and every night, but are left to hiking in shorts and a t-shirt during the day? How do you explain constantly taking inventory of your food in your head, scared to death you didn’t bring enough, constantly rationing everything you have, scared to death you’d let yourself down with the challenge you created? What about the feeling of looking across an expansive landscape topped with snow-capped mountains, turquoise frozen lakes, and not a soul in sight? The feeling of being so small, so simple, but so inspired at the same time. The Sierra: completely untouched, not over-hyped, the most beautiful stretch of land I know I will ever experience. How do you go about explaining it?

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How do you explain Northern California? The mosquitoes who suck you dry? The wonderous rockwork in Yosemite, the sparkling lakes of Tahoe? How do you explain the last 500 miles before Oregon? Steep, dry, dusty, difficult. How do you explain the mountain lions, the bears, the snakes, the hilariously dumb deer? How do you explain the doubt associated with this section? The high drop-out rate? Constantly wondering what you’re still doing out here? How about the feelings of being self-absorbed, not helpful, and second guessing your investment in yourself? Increasing your daily mileage, hours spent hiking, taking less time off, putting your body through complete turmoil, the shin splints, hiking 30 miles, going to sleep and then waking up and hiking 31 miles. How do you explain that?

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How do you explain the relief of Oregon? Finally entering a new state after 1,689 miles. Entering a new state warned with blow-downs, ferocious mosquitoes, flat land, sandy forests, burn zones, but marvelous trail-side lakes, fresh berries, and an incredible community. But how do you explain the boredom?  The foot pain? The hiker hobble? The lava fields? The relentless pursuit of Mt. Hood? Timberline Lodge? The breakfast buffet? The whiskey bar? How do you explain being completely reliant on every town and lodge stop because hiking just isn’t fun right now, how do you explain that? How do you keep going?

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How do you explain the glory of Washington. Starting at the lowest point on the entire trail and literally climbing into a state of huge ups and downs. How do you explain the daily elevation gain? The miracle of the Goat Rocks? The quiet of the old-growth forests? The community of Trout Lake? The excitement of seeing the red roof of the Snoqualmie Pancake House for a full mile before you get there? The relief of a roof after 5 wet days in the wilderness? The love of a hot cup of coffee? The comfort of hiker friends, both old and new? How do you explain the feeling of both wanting it to be over and never, ever, wanting it to end? How do you explain the emotion the rain brings, the cold brings, the snow brings. The emotion the changing of the leaves provides, the crisp change in the air, the realization you have hiked into your third season. The realization that you are almost in Canada and absolutely nothing is going to stop you from getting there. How do you explain that will? That determination? That fulfillment?

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How do you explain crossing the border and walking into Canada. You can’t explain it unless you try and explain how you got there. So I guess you just pick a rainy day, brew some coffee, and type away at a computer screen. You just might be able to explain it better than you ever thought. And if you’re really lucky, you have people in your life who are still listening.

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I just hiked from Mexico to Canada. In my mind, that is the coolest thing in the world.

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A huge thank you to everyone who followed along, stayed curious, listened, asked, and made me feel really special. My goal in life is to inspire others to try new things, jump out of their comfort zone, travel, adventure, and to overall, be good people. I have gained so much inspiration from all of our relationships, and I only hope I was able to give a little bit of that back to you.

As a cashier in Oregon told me in mid-August…

“Wow, your parents must be really proud of you. But more importantly, I hope you are really proud of yourself.”

Toe Touch: OUT!

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You have to be able to master your own mind, but when you can’t, you let songs play over…and over…and over…here are the top songs that just didn’t seem to GO AWAY all summer.

In no particular order of frequency…

  1. Livin’ on a Prayer (Bon Jovi)NorCal
  2. Don’t Look Down  (Martin Garrix) –  Sierra
  3. World on Fire (Kenny Chesney)Washington
  4. Closer (Chainsmokers)Washington
  5. Centerfold (J. Geils Band) Desert
  6. Are We Out of the Woods (T-Swift) All the time
  7. Need the Sun to Break (James Bay)Every Morning
  8. It Don’t Hurt Like it Used To (Billy Currington) – Washington
  9. I Would Walk 500 Miles (Kenny And The Scots)Every 100 miles
  10. Umbrella (Rihanna) Washington
  11. May We All (Florida Georgia Line) Oregon
  12. This Too Shall Pass (Mangas Colorado)All the time
  13. 80’s Mercedes (Maren Morris)Oregon
  14. Love On Top (Beyonce)All the time
  15. Have you Ever Seen the Rain (Creedence Clearwater) – Washington
  16. Bad Moon Rising (Creedence Clearwater) Desert
  17. One Grain of Sand (Ron Pope) Washington
  18. Independent Women (Destiny Child) NorCal
  19. Fast Car (Tracy Chapman)All the time
  20. Spirits (The Strumbellas)All the time
  21. Get Out While You Can (James Bay) – Last day of every section
  22. Lollipop (The Chordettes)Desert
  23. Skeletons (W. Darling)Sierra
  24. America’s Sweetheart (Elle King) – Always when I was covered in dirt
  25. Talkin’ Bout a Revolution (Tracy Chapman)All the time
  26. Morning Comes (Delta Rae)All the time
  27. Rescue (Rayvon Owen)Oregon

Enter:Canada

Mile: 2,658

Day: 160

Location: Ella’s Bellas Bakery, Beacon, NY

Avocados: 57

Showers: 36

I completed the trail on September 18th, and as of then those are the final numbers. Since then I’ve showered everyday. I don’t love it, but I feel as though it’s something I should do.

This is my nephew William. He showers more than I do.

This is my nephew William. He showers more than I do.

Before I go into a concluding post about my experience on the PCT, you should know how it ended. Because it ended in style. A very bad and miserable style, but as I found out, not all style is shimmery and glamorous.

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I last left off in Stehekin, remember the bakery I mentioned 19 times? I loved that place. Anyways, I was off to take on the last 89 miles: 4 days, 3 nights till Canada.

The forecast told us Thursday/Friday would be gorgeous, then the weather is turning ON and probably staying on until next June, good luck, hikers. Welcome to winter.

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I had an incredible breakfast and hopped on the bus with Polaris to the trailhead. We hiked together that morning talking about it all. The end is near, how do we feel? How do we explain this? Will we do another thru-hike? Does he use tons of commas in his blog posts as well? Maybe I can get his thoughts on the proper use of a casual semi-colon.

"Hey Polaris the colors are really pretty so I just took a creepy picture of you from behind, you don't mind do you?"

“Hey Polaris the colors are really pretty so I just took a creepy picture of you from behind, you don’t mind do you?”

It was a great morning, we’ve only met once but you’d think we’ve been friends for a lifetime. It happens often, hikers instantly clicking with each other and never looking back. Slinging jokes left and right, completely at ease with one another. They say those who endure a lot of suffering together form incredibly strong and unique bonds. This, I would have to say, is very true. (Too many commas? Polaris?)

It was a beautiful autumn day and the colors were out and about. It was a weird, dry, desert-like feel for several miles, so many little critters scurrying in the dry brush as you walked by — very reminiscint of Southern California. I thought back to those desert lizards running all over the place, and remembered the day I saw that dreaded “Mojave Brown Bear.” Remember that tale? I made it up.

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Kidding! Boy that would have been good though. BUT there is a reason to this, not a good reason, but something I feel like sharing with everyone. I am also about to tell this story because when Maggie (Chuckles) gets around to reading this she’ll want to throw up again, and that makes me laugh.

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WELL, back in May, after telling Chuckles and Spoon about my terrifying bear encounter, Chuckles thought to tell me her terrifying wildlife encounter of the day in efforts to make me feel better. She started to tell the story and then stopped, almost ralphing in her mouth. She couldn’t finish the story so Spoon excitedly finished it for her. As I was eye to eye with the “Mojave Brown Bear,” Chuckles’ eyes were 4 miles behind me, staring at the ground, at one medium sized lizard swallowing a smaller lizard. The lizard being eaten was still alive and healthy. It’s awful. It’s gross. It worked. I’m glad I went toe to toe with my “Mojave Brown Bear” instead of seeing an act of such malice. Point being, I was never fond of those lizards. I mean could you imagine walking down the street and seeing a human swallowing another live human? OH THE HUMANITY!

So where am I? The desert? Oh, no, the Northern Cascades. Close, jules. Hey I’m allowed to ramble, it’s my second to last blog post, this is going to come nowhere CLOSE to making sense.

Here's a picture of an apple cider donut in a sandwich bag to further confuse you

Here’s a picture of an apple cider donut in a sandwich bag to further confuse you

About 20 miles into the day I reached Rainy Pass and saw two old hiker friends! Proton (he’s always positive) and Dream-Catcher! I met them in Trout Lake and we got lunch at the cafe. It was here when Laura told me she booked her flight to Vancouver, and here where I started to slow down my hike. Proton and DC got back to the trail after lunch and I never saw them again. UNTIL NOW!

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They finished the trail just the morning before this! They found a way to Seattle, picked up Protons car, hit the grocery store, and drove to Rainy Pass for the day to provide trail magic for us. It was incredible. One day after their thru-hike and they began to give back. After receiving so much love and support from trail angels this summer, it was so cool to see hiker friends immediately dishing it back out. I’ve yet to meet one unappreciative hiker, I’m actually not sure if they exist.

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A few more miles up the trail I set up camp at the aptly named, wait for it….”Trail Camp.” Looking at the map I thought hey, this sounds good! But before getting there I hiked over TWO post-it warnings from “The Germans” about aggressive hornets in the area. I couldn’t believe someone who undoubtably got attacked by these things had the courage to run back and place warning post-its for the rest of us. Heroes.

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It was a lovely night at “Trail Camp.” It provided everything I needed, access to the trail AND a place to camp. It got chilly at night but I knew I was in for a sunny day, always helpful. I slept in, left trail camp around 8:45. Really chilly in the morning, couldn’t WAIT to get over the ridge and into the sun.

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At the top of Cutthroat Pass, my jaw dropped with the beautiful vista that came before me. It was unbelievable. Then I heard some music, and the rustling of potato chip bags, lots of them. Then I saw a guy who could easily be mistaken for Forrest Gump. He had great energy, even though he had just woken up from a rough night on the rocks. He said his name was “Chips” and in order to really EARN his trail name, he hitched into town and bought 15 bags of Kettle Chips, and a bottle of Champagne. This was ALL he had for fuel for the last 70 miles of the trail. He literally just ate an entire bag of NY Cheddar for breakfast. He immediately became my hero, and gave me such a good boost of energy. I love these people.

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The rest of the day was sunny and gorgeous. Ridges, forests, climbs, more ridges. It was on this day, Friday, that we had our last major climb. Of course I had no idea, but at the top of the switchbacks Polaris stopped and looked at me. He was pretty emotional telling me that was the last climb of the trail. He said something I’ll never forgot…”How are we ever going to make sense of all of this? How do we explain this? Month, after month, after month. We’ve been doing this for MONTHS.” True. These climbs have been going on for months. They’ve become part of our daily lives, they’ve become routine. Climbs we’d lose sleep over in SoCal we were now conquering, at altitude, without breaking a sweat. How do we explain this? How have we done this?

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After another really enriching conversation with Polaris, he hiked on to let me have a moment up top to soak it all in. I thought mostly of the Sierra. Mountain Pass after Mountain Pass after Mountain Pass. So much snow, so much technicality. So much experience. Could I do it again? Would I WANT to? I don’t have an answer for that yet. But what I do know is how I felt in THAT moment. I felt lighter, I felt freer, I felt like a complete badass. My legs have powered me up and down so many insane mountains, through so many intense river fords, and across so many flat and windy forests. I’ve seen so much this summer, all on my own two feet. All powered by a positive mindset. The hard part was over, it was time to coast into Canada. Or so I naively thought.

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I hiked along a ridge before I descended into where I decided to camp. The clouds were moving in, and as the sun set behind the mountains I could of swore it was saying goodbye to me. So, being 5 months into this life, I said goodbye back, shedding a tear. I had 1.5 days left, and I knew that was the last time I’d see the sun. Damnit.

The coolest clouds

The coolest clouds

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I camped by a dirt road that night, surrounded  by hunters (it’s okay guys, my jacket is ORANGE). I got my tent up, my dinner cooked, and the moment I laid down to read it began to rain. Sounds peaceful doesn’t it? Well, it was. I slept great. At sunrise a van full of hunters (none of which spoke English) caused a ruckus and then finally dispersed into the woods. I should of just asked them to shoot me, pleading to kill me now! Hah!

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No, no, I did not wake up with a bad attitude. It was my last FULL DAY in the woods, and it was a Saturday! This means nothing, but sometimes I get excited about it. My goal was the usual marathon, there was a lake about 27 miles away with camping. All I had to do was keep my head down, and keep one foot in front of the other. I would get there eventually, just going for a walk in the woods, shouldn’t be too bad! Right?! Right?!

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Worst day of my existence. Terrible horrible no good very bad day. Where’d those hunters go?

Also in my positive mindset corner, a rain jacket! It has a rip in it and I’ve had it for over 5 years and it doesn’t work well. But it’s labeled a rain jacket so it’s GOT to be better than nothing, right? I bundled up. I lost a glove 200 miles ago so I didn’t even bother wearing my other one. Rain pants would have been a good investment. Next time.

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I took down my sopping tent, stuffed it in a garbage bag and stuffed that in the outside pocket of my pack. Time to get moving or I am going to freeze. 2 miles until Harts Pass, where they’re are drop toilets and maybe car campers offering up hot coffee? Hey, a girl can dream. I got to Harts Pass, used the toilet, threw away some garbage (the BEST feeling) and tried to look as miserable as possible. No one felt bad for me. No one offered coffee. Bitches.

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Hiking on! After Harts Pass it stopped raining for 25 minutes and it filled me with SO much hope. Turns out the clouds were just filling up so it could dump on us for the next 24 hours straight. Head down, one foot in front of the other. I put my poles in my backpack for the first time all summer. My hands needed to be free so I could stuff them in my pants and shirt to warm up. It sucked not being able to hike with my poles, my ankles were turning all over the place and there were some steep climbs towards the end of the day. My joints saw 100% pressure on the very last day of the trail, kind of funny.

I stopped once around 3:00 because there was a spot the size of my body that a tree was sheltering from the rain. I had 2 scoops of PB left so I hoped to be able to open my pack and devour it. It took a minute, but I was able to figure out a way to unclick my pack buckle. It was a moment. Me, pouring rain, peanut butter, misery. It was a moment.

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The rest of the day was spent battling the inner turmoil. Hands clenched tightly around my umbrella, held captive to my own mind. A prisoner. Just me, the weather, inaccessible food, and a whole buncha rocks. I saw only 2 others. I spent the afternoon hiking on the edge of my breaking point, going back and forth. I’d go over the edge and yell at the PCT, asking why it was so relentless. Then I’d somehow find a way to bring myself back and apologize for being so crazy. Then I’d yell at it again. Then maybe cry a little bit. Then laugh a little bit. Then clench my fists and tell myself “one last test, one last test.” This whole summer I self-motivated myself to get up, get out, and get it done. I had to dig down deep to see if any of that toughness was left, and I found some, thank god.

The last few miles I was above 7,000′ so it wasn’t raining, it was just ridiculously windy and cold. This worked out well, because there’s nothing like a good wind-storm when you’re soaking wet! I had a heated debate in my head whether I’d rather be hiking in the wind or the rain. I dismissed my own rules to the debate and chose the sun.

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Last morning in my tent, selfie!

The hardest part about the tenacity of the weather is the fear that comes with it. People ask me all the time…”aren’t you scared out there alone?” On the fair weather days, not so much, I’ve adapted to the change and have gotten used to the elements. But when the weather is as frightening and dangerous as it was on that Saturday, and as it was in the High Sierra, the answer is yes. I’m terrified of everything when the weather is bad. But I’d also still be on the couch if I let fear decide.

Fear. Stress. Imagine them intertwined into a huge ball resting in your gut. It’s just sitting there. You can feel it. You try and try to unravel it, figure out how to make it disappear. But eventually, you must accept that it’s there and that it is going to be part of you until you make it out. It’s this ball of fear that exhausts me the most. It weighs so heavily on my mind. What if nothing is dry? Will I make it through the night? Will I have to keep hiking to stay warm? What if my tent collapses in the storm? So many unknowns. I was so tired from 5+ months of unknowns. My mind needed a vacation from this vacation. Like a Kardashian type vacation. Maybe I’ll book with Sandals.

I made it to the lake, somewhere between 6-7:00. 10 hours of nonstop hiking. 27 miles. The wind was whipping my tent around, and the rain came in heavy bursts. I was sort of dry. My tent door zippers broke again 100 miles ago, so I tried to configure a garbage bag/burger bandana makeshift door to keep the draftiness at bay. It sort of worked. Actually, for the first time ever, I slept with my head away from the door, where my feet should be. It was weird and I didn’t like it, but I felt warmer down there.

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I read for awhile, afraid to surrender to the efforts of falling asleep. Luckily, I fell asleep, but only for a little bit. I woke up a couple hours later to boil water, my lower half was insanely uncomfortable. I filled up a water bottle of hot water and threw it in my sleeping bag. Also for the first time, I peed in my tent. I didn’t want to disturb my garbage bag/burger bandana door set-up. You know Talenti Gelato? Delicious, delicious gelato. I had a pint jar for a few weeks now, using it as a jar for certain drinks or for protecting fragile fruits. Tonight, I used it as my toilet. I peed in it 3 times, emptying it outside my tent each time just in case it spilled. I wish I did that all summer!

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Anyways, I couldn’t sleep, so I read and I read, oddly at peace. The worst part was over, my tent seemed to be holding up and sure I could see my breath and was a bit damp, but things could certaintly be worse. Besides, tomorrow night I’d be inside! I’d have to take my time, but I’d be out of here and in a car around 4:00 tomorrow. I was going to be okay. This is a blessing, now I won’t miss the PCT too badly. This is a blessing. A traumatic blessing. Maybe one day I can laugh at this, but probably not.

I left camp at 10:00, this was the plan. I had 6 miles to the border and then another 9 miles to the parking lot at Manning Park. I figured I’d spend 1-2 hours at the border taking photos and hanging out. When I left my tent that Sunday morning and saw fresh snow on the mountain tops, I knew it was my time to end this hike. This is it, the time is right. Let’s go to Canada, Toe Touch, let’s get the F out of here!

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I got to the Monument and there were at least 10 people there already. Pretty loud group. I thought a lot about what it would feel like to see the monument. I envisioned it often on my boring days in Northern California and Oregon. When I did, I would tear up. Surely the same would happen on the actual day. Nope.

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The rain had stopped, and it wasn’t a bad morning at all once I got moving. I got to the Monument and really didn’t feel much of anything. The crowd of people and fair weather definitely dimmed any deep emotion I thought I’d have, but I didn’t even feel heavy joy. It felt like another goal achieved, like I had made it to my next resupply point. “Time for pizza and a stop at the market, then back to the trail!” I sat staring at the monument, smiling and boiling water for a celebratory vodka hot chocolate. Don’t get me wrong, I was HAPPY. Very much so. But I’ve had more joyful moments on the trail. This realization made me even happier…

What I’ve come up with is this: the reason I didn’t feel such an overwhelming amount of accomplishment in reaching the border is because I celebrated everyday as such. Every night before bed I’d reflect on the day and give myself a huge high-five, almost not believing where I started that morning. Each morning felt like a lifetime ago. Each day I stayed present and enjoyed all of the little things, and by the time I was ready to camp, I was so fulfilled and felt so accomplished. Each morning I woke up with purpose, with excitement, with gratitude.

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Its cliche, but it’s worth noting, the joy is in the journey. If my only motivation to do the PCT was to reach Canada, I would have quit long ago. Most did. You need more than an extrinsic motivator. I reached Canada having fun the whole way because my primary goals were in the process and learning experiences of the trail. Canada was secondary. I enjoyed the little things along the way, I enjoyed the physical abuse, I enjoyed the self-development, I enjoyed mastering my own mind, I enjoyed the connections, I enjoyed the scenery, I enjoyed the simple life. And damnit, I enjoyed the weather. And if I didn’t enjoy it, I learned from it. I spent the summer investing in myself, and I came out of it a much better version of myself. The joy is in the journey.

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Emotionally charged post coming soon.

 

 

 

Butter.

Mile: 2,569

Day: 156

Location: Stehekin Valley Ranch, WA

Avocados: 56

Showers: 35

*Note: Since I am editing this on a desktop I am going to format the pictures so they are right side up for all desktop readers. My apologies for anyone who reads this on their mobile device.

I’ve done it. It took 2,569 miles, but I’ve completed my goal. I’ve walked straight into a town that belongs in a Nicholas Sparks Novel. The town of Stehekin, Washington. Screw Canada, I’m hanging up my boots. I have found paradise.

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Whoa whoa whoa, back it up Jules. What about that other town we can’t pronounce? Oh, Snoqualmie? No no the next one! Oh right, Skykomish! Yes, Skykomish, well that’s my favorite trail town TOO! Every trail town is my favorite trail town, just like every section is my favorite section. I guess you can say I’ve really learned how to live in the present.

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Okay, back to Skykomish because I haven’t told you about how much I loved it yet. The section from Snoqualmie Pass to Stevens Pass (Skykomish) was 72 miles. It was another cold and wet few days with a relief day of minor sunshine. Fall is in the air on blast. The nights have gotten down to low thirties, definitely below freezing at times. One night I woke up and starting slapping all of my gear that was exploded around me. I was freaking out. Why? Because everything was SO cold that I thought it was soaking wet. I knew it wasn’t raining but I was next to a lake so I figured the condensation snuck through my barricade of ultra-light tent walls and wanted me miserable. Turns out, nothing was wet, everything was just about frozen. Feels the same, if you’re wondering. Bear Claw told me she woke up the other night to have a sip of water and it hurt her teeth. Wintry nights and summery days, the temperature difference between the shade and the sun is about 75 degrees, give or take 65 degrees. Fact.

LISTEN TO ME COMPLAIN MORE ABOUT HOW COLD IT IS!

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Washington has been so challenging, which means it’s been incredibly rewarding. We are averaging 6,000′ elevation gain everyday, and usually the same amount of loss. What this means is that hikers are starting to bitch about their knees being sore. That’s all that means. Oh, and that the views are unbelievable and that the man calves I get to hike behind are even more carved out. Win win!

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Alpine Lakes Wilderness was amazing. 5 years ago I took a handsaw to my underwear and threw them off a ridge here. You should ask me about that story sometime.

Alpine Lakes Wilderness was amazing. 5 years ago I took a handsaw to my underwear and threw them off a ridge here. You should ask me about that story sometime.

I got to Stevens Pass after an easy morning of 7 miles. I saw about 5 hikers on the highway trying to hitch into the nearest town, Skykomish. I decided not to burst their bubble (who’s gonna pick up 6 people???) and go in the lodge at Stevens Pass to check my email and get a coffee — surely they’ll be gone within the hour so I can start my own hitching process. There’s only one place to stay in Skykomish, so I decided to be responsible and give them a call to book a room. JACKPOT – LAST ROOM! Henry, the owner, was so nice he even told me he knows a guy who can come pick me up as long as I do ONE thing: DON’T MOVE. Ugh, okay Henry fineeeeeeeeeee I’ll stay right here in this seated position indoors sipping on this warm caffeinated beverage, but only for you Henry!

suns out! put on your shorts and shake out your rain fly!

Suns out! Put on your shorts and shake out your rain fly!

I felt really lucky, and extremely posh. Chris came to pick me up within 20 minutes and as we left the parking lot I saw the same hikers on the highway trying desperately for a ride. Sometimes hitching a ride is so demoralizing that the only way to deal with it positively is by viewing it as a lesson in rejection. Think about it, if you can become comfortable with rejection you can rule the world. Another: Fact.

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I felt really guilty as we drove away and my fellow hikers threw their arms up in “what the f$&@” fashion. Well, we all make choices, and coffee is always the right one. After 2 hours I saw those guys in town only for them to be told there were no rooms left: ouch.

What a peaceful little stream crossing

What a peaceful little stream crossing

Skykomish is a super quiet and peaceful place. It has a laundromat, bar, hotel/restaurant, and a couple shops that are only open for 4 hours a week. Oh, and a huge loud train that goes by 20 times a day. BEEEEEPPPPPPPPPPPPPP.

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I fell in love with it right away. Henry gave me an “orientation” to the inn and I went to the post office to pick up 4 PACKAGES! I was feeling really popular with my arms full leaving the PO. I knew they were all coming and was psyched they were all there.

At my last resupply stop, Snoqualmie Pass, my package to myself and my friends package to me both didn’t make it to the Chevron. I was skeptical of the Chevron, and it proved me right. All the packages were thrown into a warm beer cooler in the back and the guy says “good luck.” Turns out, if the ETA isn’t within a couple days they don’t deliver it. Yeah, I still don’t understand how they would know. It was a disorganized mess, and after an hour of hauling boxes around looking for my name, I gave up. LUCKILY I saw my friend Lukes package. Luke, sorry, Bivvy, is a friend I met a long ways back, a Cartoonist from Ireland and just before he left for the trail, a published author! We hiked a lot together with Mile 55 in the Sierra but then I lost the group and he was lucky enough to keep pace with them. All I know is that Luke had to skip parts of Oregon so he was way ahead, so I told him I found his box and he told me if I needed food to just take it. It felt invasive, but I went for it. I also found it extremely hilarious that the first thing on top was a huge bottle of SPF 50, gotta love that Irish skin! Pretty amazing how we all look out for each other out here. You may not have seen a close friend in a 1,000 miles, but they are never far (awwwwwwwww).

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Okay BACK to Skykomish. I got a TON of candy from my friends and family. Lots of notes of encouragement and lots of warm fuzzy feelings. It was a solid trip to the post office. I feel so lucky to have the support system that I do, it makes this trail so much more fun, and so much easier.

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After drying out my gear in the backyard of the Inn, I went next door to the Whistling Post, the local dive bar to watch the NFL season opener. I sat at the bar and chatted with the locals and got the scoop on the family bar business as I watched the game. Then the best thing happened. Bear Claw and Lemonade (remember them from previous posts? The engaged couple from SF who took 2 weeks off in July to get married in Sierra City? The wedding I couldn’t go to because I was in the ER peeing blood? Good, because they’re BACK!) texted me saying they were next door eating dinner! I couldn’t believe it, I knew they were closing the gap quickly, but didn’t think I’d see them until here, in Stehekin, at the bakery they first told me about. BONUS, they caught me a town early! They met me at the bar and we drank lots and caught up. I haven’t seen them in 2 months, over a 1,000 miles at that point. We stayed in good contact and finally bridged the gap, we were very happy hikers in Skykomish.

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We grabbed breakfast and since they got in so late the previous night, they still had post office and laundry things to do, so I left a couple hours before them. As the trail would have it, I didn’t see them again until the morning we took the bus into Stehekin. The final 8 miles of the 108 mile butt-whooping section. They were consistently 5 miles behind me it seemed, but it was okay, because the biggest thing in our life was getting to the Stehekin Bakery together. And that, we achieved.

The girls going for it. Total ladies. Our moms back East are glowing with pride.

I left Skykomish a bit weighted down by the length and difficulty of the next section. 108 miles: 5 days 4 nights, and the most elevation gain/loss aside from the Sierra. The only bad weather day was going to be Sunday, so that was really comforting. The sun will be out! Woop!

So after an ice cream at the lodge, I started hiking at 1pm. Beautiful day, at that point we haven’t seen a sunny day like this in a long time, so it felt extra special. I hiked 15 miles and then ran into Raiden, Chapstick, and Big Bear, and we hiked into the late evening together towards Pear Lake. The sun was setting on Mt. Baker and we cruised into camp. About 8 other tents were already set up (hot spot!) but after a bit of searching I found one far enough away that I didn’t have to listen to a chorus of snoring – – success. They had a fire going and I hung out for a while (I know, how SOCIAL of me!) to see who was there. I finally met ALTA, and apparently “re-met” Polaris. Polaris is a really cool guy. He looked at me and says “Toe Touch, yes, Toe Touch, we met at the side of 3-Fingered Jack in mid to late August right around lunchtime.” My mouth was agape. Was he right? Yes, yes he was. I didn’t recognize him, but he was part of a group I had lunch with that day on the side of the trail, which just so happened to have an epic view of 3-Fingered Jack (a mountain in Oregon, by the way). Astonishing. I will say, hiking IS very good for the memory.

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got it.

got it.

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NOOOO, can it be? nahhh it's a joke

NOOOO, can it be? nahhh it’s a joke

It's true! It's true! What a cool toilet!

It’s true! It’s true! What a cool toilet!

I slept like a rock and woke up to a dry tent, Eureka! Left camp at 8 and never saw any of those people again until, you guessed it, the bus ride to the Stehekin Bakery (I’m gonna see how many times I can mention this bakery in one post). It was sunny all day and dare I say, hot out. The trail was fun and challenging, with ridges and views galore. The colors were of blue, green, red, orange, and yellow. So clear, so fun. I sat on a rock with an stellar backrest, tore apart my backpack, and enjoyed an apple with peanut butter. My friends Yodeler and Trigger (awesome French couple) hiked by and that was the start to seeing them very often throughout the section. This was all in Glacier Peak Wilderness, quite possibly the most awe inspiring section of the trail.

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I bought this rock, I move in at the end of the month

I bought this rock, I move in at the end of the month

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After my lunch I hiked on, feeling sicker and sicker as the hours passed. First I got hit with nausea, then a headache, then overall weakness. I put on a podcast about Health for Female Endurance Athletes to try and distract me from my sickness but that only made it worse. A huge part of the podcast was about Amenorrhea or, not getting your period for over 90 days. This may be too much information for some, but I’ve already taken you through my whole journey since April, so why leave anything out now: I haven’t had my cycle since April, 2 weeks into the hike. Not surprising, my body is under constant physical stress with very little time to recover. It’s not healthy to go this long without a period, my hormones are as balanced as I’ve been able to keep them, but are clearly not functioning at an optimal level. This podcast had great information, but I couldn’t listen anymore, I tore out my earbuds. I felt so unhealthy. Fit but unhealthy. Gah. What is going ON in there!

I took a picture of this rock because I couldn't believe how flat it was.

I took a picture of this rock because I couldn’t believe how flat it was.

I got to the creek and decided to camp there. I was so weak at this point that it would be stupid to walk anymore. Besides, 2 ladies section hiking said they were going to camp at this creek, and it would be nice to have their company while I’m not feeling well. They are a bit older, and I took great comfort in that. I got to camp and with no one else there, went far into the brush and barfed. Didn’t take much, came right out. And since I’ve decided to tell you everything, you should know that it looked like chunky black tar. It was as if I threw up a dead organ. I was so disturbed. I’m surprised I didn’t shed a tear from the fear I felt in my gut. Because clearly, I’m on the brink of death. Good thing I have nice older ladies to give me comfort in the night. If my mom can’t be here with ginger ale and wonder bread toast, two strangers will do. I’m sure they’ll be thrilled with their new designated task for the evening.

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I poked around at my vomit because I wanted to know what I had just lost. It HAD to be the peanut butter, I MUST have overdone it! But why then, is it BLACK. So perplexed. It just made me feel worse about myself. My body is dying from the inside out and telling me to give it a REST. And I understand, recovery is so important. Rest is so important. But so is Canada. And I’ve been pushing my limits all summer in so many different ways, it can wait another week.

Here's a pretty picture of a flower plant berry thing to take your mind off of my dead organs.

Here’s a pretty picture of a flower plant berry thing to take your mind off of my dead organs.

Fortunately, I went through my chores that night trying to forget what just came out of my body. I was actively erasing it from my memory. I cautiously ate dinner and thankfully slept really well. I never needed to bother the sweet old ladies. I left the next morning at 8 and it was foggy, wet, and frigid. It was a really challenging morning to get moving. I still felt weak, but capable of hiking. Not that it mattered, this section is so remote there was no way out even if I did leave my dead liver on the forest floor last night. We were deep in the wilderness all week, and you know I wasn’t about to turn around.

The morning was rough. It was raining and the trail was gutted and terrible. I slipped and fell 3 times, with one of them in slow motion watching my knee twist in a very bad way. I yelled a bad word and forced myself back up. I put pressure on my knee and it responded like a champ, I’m good, I got this. I was going up and over and under downed trees and just trying to survive the morning, doing everything I could to control my thoughts. Only let the good ones in, and dismiss the bad ones right away. By noon, the rain stopped and the sun fought to come out. A guy passed me saying “Congratulations! Nothing can stop you now!” I stopped and looked at him. Big smile. I returned it. He’s right, after being punched in the gut all morning, it still wasn’t going to stop me from getting to Canada. At this point, the PCT can have its way with me, it’s just simply not going to matter. I will continue to battle it out and laugh at it as much as possible. Even when my barf and poop looked really similar back to back. Ahhhh goddddd nooooo CMON julez! Sorry, I’m a thru-hiker, and all we talk about is food and poop. Why should my blog be any different?

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Can you IMAGINE what this must have sounded like when it fell?!?!

Looks good to me. Hiked it.

Looks good to me. Hiked it.

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So this day, Sunday, September 11th (perspective played a big role in getting me out of the gutter as well) was starting to look up. The sun came out and I climbed 6,000 feet before 12:30. A nice lady took my photo at the top and we hiked together for a little bit of the descent, then I raced on. I had 3,000 more feet to climb and then 3,000 more to descend before camp. I was feeling SO much better, and getting really excited for another long climb. By the end of the day I was camped next to a creek, having gone up (and down) 9,000 feet in 27 miles, and had my appetite back. Phew. What a day. Not sure I’ve ever had to overcome so much in one tiny little 12 hour period. Bring on the deadlines, the stress, the poor team dynamics, the scheduling issues, time management, chronic conflict — bring it all on society, or “real world.” I’d be shocked to see how rattled you can make me. Thru-hikers have to be the most desired employees in the world.

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The next day I did 29 miles and the average 6,000 gain. Standard. The Northern Cascades have been breathtaking. One of my favorite sections of the trail! (Hah!) I was camped 8 miles from the ranger station where the bus would pick us up to go to the BAKERY and then to the “town” of Stehekin. I slept until 8:45 because frankly, I didn’t need to leave camp before 9:30. Well, in comes Bear Claw and Lemonade already 10 miles into their day (they woke up at 5 to frost on their tent, I slept for another 4 hours it seems, lazy.) All I hear is “Is that Toe Touch?” I yelped “Yeah!” And stuck my head out really happy to see them. They both looked at their watches at the same time and asked me, politely, what the hell I was doing. “There are CINNAMON ROLLS to be eaten and we mustn’t miss the 12:30 bus!” I said dontttt worryyyyy I got this! Save me a seat! They scampered off and I was on trail within 30 minutes. It reminded me of an ABC Family sitcom where the parents are always trying to get their kid out of bed in time for the bus, and the kid is just like gahhhhhhhhh. But instead of catching the bus to school, I was catching the bus to the bakery, where I’ve heard tales for 1500 miles of cinnamon rolls and sticky buns larger than my head. And I got a big head.

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Appropriately enough, I got to the bus stop with 40 MINUTES to spare (thank you, thank you) and all the hikers were sitting on the picnic table clipping their nails. Classic.

Chapstick and Big Bear enjoying their Cinnamon Roll snack

Chapstick and Big Bear enjoying their Cinnamon Roll snack

We rode in front of the bus, per Bear Claws demand since mile 1,325 (we’ve talked about this bakery a lot in our short friendship). The bus stops at the bakery and gives you 10 minutes to get in and get out! Next bus doesn’t come for another 3 hours so if you want to stay, go for it, but there’s no cell service or wifi, so you better either be REALLY hungry or have a good book. Or borrow one of theirs and plan your next adventure…

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I struggled. Bear Claw and Lemonade led the pack and were first in line. Feeling the heat, they made excellent and efficient choices. One of everything. And a slice of pizza. Bear Claw even had time to circle back and coach me through my decision, Cinnamon Roll or Sticky Bun? Gah! But what about a kale salad? Can I have that to go? Will he be able to pack it before the bus leaves? Bear Claw both heard and saw my indecisiveness, told me I was on the struggle bus big time and deserted me. Thanks for your support, pal.

Sticky Bun. And Kale Salad. To-go. Oh and Coffee. Please. Thank You. Swipe. Exhale. Smile. Cheer. High-Five.

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So happy with my decision. I had a couple bites of my bun on the bus and it was delectable. So buttery and gooey and moist and buttery and caramelly and buttery. It was heaven. I ate my Kale salad first and then we got to Stehekin. Lemonade bought a bottle of Reisling (it was either wine or hard Apple ciders, the last batch of hikers drank ALL the beer, hah! Imagine that!) and Bear Claw gathered Adirondack Chairs. We sat on the deck of the lodge. Big bear, Chapsick, Raiden, Lemonade, Bear Claw and myself. Transfixed by the accomplishment of the insanely physical last 108 miles, the sparkling waters of Lake Chelan, passing around a bottle of wine, drinking coffee on the side, devouring our monster pastries. I can only speak for myself, but it was quite clear the feeling was mutual, it was one of the best moments of the summer.

Lemonade and Bear Claw enjoying Adirondack Chairs, Ice Cream, Wine, and really good lighting

Lemonade and Bear Claw enjoying Adirondack Chairs, Ice Cream, Wine, and really good lighting

We dedicated that time to just relax. After the wine was gone we got a group campsite and then hit up the post office and ran other “errands.” Basically we went to the post office and then jumped in the lake. It was cold for sure, but the clear green/blue waters were so inviting. The sun was sparkling off the lake and we all stripped down to our skivvy’s and dove in. We laid out on the boat launch dock for awhile, allowing the sun to hit our stomachs and backs and dare I say it, thighs, for the first time all summer. We passed around a bag of Juanitas, everyone had a 4-pack of ciders, and we continued to be obsessed with the day.

The lodge

The lodge

We got dinner at the lodge. Lots of hikers around so we ended up with a table of 10. It was so much fun, the overall energy of the hikers is bittersweet. I would say most are very much ready to be done hiking for awhile. I for one am ready to wake up and NOT have to hike all day everyday. That will be a great little feeling. I am excited to start running again, doing more recreational sports, pursuing other passions. But how can one NOT miss this life? It’s unlike any other. And you only get to experience it if you’re one of the few who have made it this far, who have overcome all the tough times, who have kept a positive mindset, who have committed to it long ago, and never, ever, given up on it. I’m grateful for it everyday. I love it so much. But I’m ready for at least an intermission. A long, intermission.

7th and final National Park!

7th and final National Park!

Can you believe I saw my first rattlesnake at mile 2,569 in the town of Stehekin? How does that work? Damnit!

Can you believe I saw my first rattlesnake at mile 2,569 in the town of Stehekin? How does that work? Damnit!

My friends left the next morning, and I stayed put. They will finish a day before me, but there’s a great chance of seeing them in Vancouver to celebrate. I think Laura would be kind of pissed if she booked a flight and rented a car just to see me walk out of Manning Park Lodge showered, drunk, and in real clothes. No, no, I am trying to time it so I am stinky, drunk, and in the same clothes she sent me in Northern California. She deserves that much, right?

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Thanks leesh for the calories!

Thanks Alicia for the package of calories!

I took the following day off and rented a bike to ride to the bakery. I spent 3 hours at the bakery writing letters and postcards. I stopped at a tiny organic farm on my way back and bought a peach and a pear. I returned my bike after taking in the lovely feeling of being on 2 wheels. Stehekin is a community only accessible by foot, boat, or bus. There is no cell service anywhere. There is only wifi if you pay to stay at either the Lodge or the Ranch.

Here I am, at the Ranch. I am in a “tent cabin” with no electricity. I have a canvas roof and a kerosene lamp. The bathroom is in another building. I have a bed, a night table, and a hammock. The floor is concrete, the walls are wood paneling, and the windows are more canvas that button to the walls. There is no lock on the door. There IS a fire extinguisher. I love this place. I got a big ole Ranch Roast for dinner and apple crispy for dessert. All made on site, I actually smelled the beets cooking while in the shower. Talk about a top moment. I ate dinner at a large table and made friends with a huge group of retirees here for a 2-day hike. The food was probably the best quality I’ve had on trail. It was so fresh. The Internet connection is terrible so I won’t be able to publish this blog post until Canada. Canada is 89 miles away. Well, the Monument (where I’ll be having a huge photo shoot) is only 80 miles away. Manning Park is 89 miles away. Either way, that is 3 nights. 3 back-country nights left. 2 nice days, 2 very bad weather days. America is literally going to kick my ass out of my own country.

Jesus take the wheel.

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September.

Day: 147

Mile: 2,390.6

Location: Snoqualmie Pass, Washington

Avocados: 54 (they’re expensive up here!)

Showers: 33

“It’s the hard parts that make it so great.” Right? RIGHT?!?!

Could have used a rain jacket. Could have used some rain paints. Could have used an extra set of extremities.

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When buying gear for this hike I looked into many rain jackets and noticed a theme: the more expensive the jacket, the worse the reviews. I gave up and told myself I’d buy a rain jacket when I got closer to the Northwest. Never got around to it. Oops.

I joined the Warriors for pizza on our last night in Packwood and I listened to their stories on the lovely topic of “the coldest you’ve ever been.” This proved to be an extremely helpful pizza party because this week I was really cold, but not even close to what those guys have been through, thus telling myself “you’ll be fine” more easily and actually believing it. I got back on trail Tuesday around noon. A trail angel named Holly gave me a ride back to the trailhead. Holly was in town shuttling hikers back and forth and thus gaining first-hand info from us to use towards her thruhike next year (excellent research strategy). Tons of enthusiasm that Holly, she was awesome.

How many thruhikers does it take to perform a common household chore?

How many thruhikers does it take to perform a common household chore? SOMEONE CLOSE THE BLIND, I CANT SEEEEE

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I had quite a heavy pack this time. I had 100 miles to hike and with the increasing elevation gain, colder temps, and bad weather, I needed more food. I also wasn’t sure how fast I was going to go, so instead of packing for 3 nights, I grabbed some pathetic looking oats from the hiker box in case I needed 4 nights to get to Snoqualmie. Unfortunately my pack didn’t get much lighter as I ate the food because with the rainy weather all my gear became water-logged.

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Anybody lose their frying pans?

It was cloudy out, but it stayed dry as I hiked 20 miles to camp. As I set up my tent in a tiny opening in a cluster of trees, it began to rain. Got really lucky with that one! It rained the rest of the night but all my stuff stayed dry so the morning wasn’t too terrible.

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I left a few notes on the trees outside my tent for the Warriors to see in the morning. As I was shuffling around my tent I heard Rant and so he came over to chat for a bit. He hiked ahead as I finally got myself to get out of my tent and take it down. There is nothing worse than taking down a wet tent when you can’t feel your hands. Nothing.

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I caught up to Rant a few miles later and we hiked to Chinook Pass together. He and the Warriors are on the Combat War Vets sponsored hike so they had a meeting at the VFW in a town off Chinook Pass. At this point it was wet, cold, and really hopeless looking. I considered hitching into a town and waiting out the worst of the rain, and then realized if I did that I wouldn’t finish this trail until 2017. So as Rant hitched into town for a hot cocoa, burger, and shelter, I hiked up Crystal Mountain and was rewarded with no view. But first, I took a picture of Rant taking his weekly selfie.

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The rest of the day was actually pretty okay. Intermittent showers. Whenever it WASN’T raining I was so hopeful. I was so happy. I was so confident. Hiking was fun! Then it would start raining 5 minutes later and I would consider eating the red berries for a quicker death. Sounds extreme, but don’t say the weather hasn’t ever had an immediate impact on your mood.

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The last 2 hours of the day it stopped raining and I was so grateful. I hiked until 7, pulled my wet tent out of my outside pocket, and set it up. Bad news, the whole tent was soaked. In a frenzy that morning I rolled the wetness into itself, now the whole inside was drenched. I didn’t have anything dry to wipe it down with (I forgot to pack out my beach towel) so I took a semi-dry bandana and gave it my all. I then laid out a garbage bag and a few other semi-dry items and topped it with my sleeping pad. I mistakenly threw in my soaking wet backpack inside my tent down towards my feet (like I always do, because it’s always been dry). It was a rough night. It didn’t rain tooooo badly, but it was so damp inside my tent that in the middle of the night I woke up to boil water. Another phrase I’ll never use lightly again is “chilled to the bone.” I was chilled to the bone. I wasn’t surprised though, I was sleeping inside a wet tent, in a damp sleeping bag, with my feet resting on a soaking wet pack. I also had to watch every movement because everything surrounding my sleeping pad was wet, there was no time for trail nightmares tonight toe touch! If you even as much as SKIM the wall of your tent you’ll die of hypothermia! Die!

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So where are we? Oh yes, 2:30Am. I boiled water, poured it into my water bottle, and threw it in my sleeping bag for my feet to play around with. It was heaven. I had a handful of almonds to aid in the warming process and fell back asleep. I woke up, stared at my wet ceiling, and geared myself up for another day. You know what the worst sequence of events is?

1. Sitting up

2. Changing from dry clothes into wet clothes

3. Putting on heavy, sopping socks

4. Putting on soaked sneaks

5. Taking the first step in your wet gear

6. Unbuckling your rain fly when you can’t feel your hands (I’ll save you the rant)

7. Handling your metal tent poles when you can’t feel your hands

8. Shoving your wet tent in your wet bag

9. Realizing you haven’t even pooped yet

The most difficult part of the week was knowing it was projected to get worse and worse. Wednesday was not suppose to rain until the evening. Thursday was suppose to be on and off. But Friday? Friday was suppose to rain, and then rain some more. Saturday was the light at the end of the tunnel, cold and rainy morning, but possible sun if you stick it out that long to experience it.

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Back to sleeping like a mummy!

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I woke up Friday ready and excited for a wet n’ wild day! Woooo! Whatcha got Washington! It was really cold, but didn’t start raining until 5 miles in (right around the time I start to gain strength back in my hands). I hiked the morning with a young married couple from South Africa, Hiccup and Flapjack and we stopped at a really random cabin in the woods. I first met these guys early on in the desert so it was great to see them. They mistakenly bumped up their cold weather gear so I’m not sure how they made it through that section in shorts. Insane. Once it stopped pouring I began to hike again and 5 minutes later it started raining again. Oh well, I tried.

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Friday, oh, Friday. Rain, cold, climbing. You know who was MVP of Friday? Roger. After hiking at an incredibly consistent pace (the grade didn’t matter, I actually probably hiked faster up the mountains than down) for nearly 6 hours, I stopped suddenly in my tracks. I crossed an unpaved forest service road and there was a big truck and canopy set up. I couldn’t see people, but I saw hiker poles laid out in the rain, good indicator. I peaked my head around the wall and saw 4 hikers huddled around a fire and then a guy named Roger. “Want a hot drink?” He laughs, as if it’s not even a question. Who would deny a hot drink? I don’t even need flavor Roger! Gimme hot water! First I’ll pour it all over my body, then I’ll chug it. I mean, hot cocoa please!image

He had a table of fresh fruit and was making hot drinks for us. He kept the fire going and it took a lot of discipline not to throw myself in it. I knew Gumby and Indie, 2 females hiking together since the Sierra, and then I met 2 new guys, Lawless and Crafty. Gumby and Indie decided to spend the night there by the fire and under the tarp, but the guys headed out for more miles, and I followed suit. Roger is an engineer living in the Seattle area and was out here because it was “something he’s always wanted to do.” We told stories around the fire, thanked Roger incessantly, and I watched as Indie lit a hole in her sock drying by the fire and laughing about it. “Ohhhh welp there goes that!” Laughter is the best way out of misery.

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I went another 6 miles and set up camp around 7 again. I did a better job packing up my tent that morning so it wasn’t completely soaked. The bad part was that I gathered water and decided to hike another 2 miles. I didn’t realize it’d be up a mountain. It was good to get my blood flowing again, but bad because I was now looking to spend the night 1,000 feet higher up than I should have been. Cold. It was windy, dark, rainy, and I pitched my tent on what I prayed was an “abandoned” unpaved rocky forest service road. Everything about it was dangerous and creepy. The last line in my journal entry reads..”I’m scared.” Hahaha. Another solid end of the day by Toe Touch.

Doom&Gloom

Doom&Gloom

I slept warmer that night because I stuffed myself in a garbage bag before stuffing myself in my damp sleeping bag: success! I also had a weird quinoa Mac n’ Cheese for dinner, so my tummy was warm and happy. Oh, and a pink frosted sugar cookie! Gas station special!

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I woke up on Saturday having 26 miles until my resupply point: Snoqualmie Pass, a ski resort with a motel and gas station. I decided that if I stayed dry, I would take it easy and camp a few miles from “town.” If I remained soaked, I was high tailing it to town. Luckily, 6 miles into my morning, I crossed another unpaved road and found Brian. Brian’s wife, ALTA (an acronym for “At Least Till Ashland”) is thru-hiking and since he just retired, is driving the camper up the country and making her dinner every 3-4 days when they meet-up. It’s adorable. It was a really cold morning, I tried eating an apple but I kept dropping it. My grip strength was pathetically low. When I saw Brian he said the sweetest of phrases “Coffee Bars Open!” I started cheering, I don’t care how embarrassing I looked, I was so happy. It was good coffee too, I even grinded up the beans in his Java Mill. Best on trail coffee, hands down.

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Naturally, after Brian told me it was going to 100% rain all day, the sun came out. I hung around for over an hour, dried out my tent and jacket, and we listened to a baseball game on his satellite radio. Pals. As he handed me my coffee he so carefully made, he said “oh! And one more thing….BISCOTTI!” He whipped it out from behind his back with such enthusiasm I began cheering again. Boy did we have a great time. His wife is a day behind me and unfortunately I haven’t met her yet, but with her being so close I hope to see them both again! As I packed up my stuff I asked if I could do anything for him for such an amazing cup of coffee, biscotti, and sleeve of Oreos, and he said yes, yes I could. “I do this for the same reasons I worked as an Emergency Room Nurse for over 30 years, I do it to help people, and the only payment I take is a smile.” So I smiled as big as I could and jetted off! Before I was out of ear shot he said hey Toe touch! You smell that? “No Brian, what’s that smell?” “CANADA!” haha, and I disappeared into the woods, continuing North into the patch of sunshine.

Using Brian's truck as a drying line

Using Brian’s truck as a drying line

I stayed dry the rest of the day. I hiked slow because I didn’t want to get too close to civilization too early, because then I wouldn’t be able to resist the temptation. In an incredible act of self-restraint, I set up camp early, only 3 miles from the pass. I took my time hiking, I actually stopped and picked berries and put them in a bag. Usually I just do a drive-by trying to pick them without ever slowing my perpetual motion. I sat on a rock and took a few deep breathes and enjoyed the quiet. I set up camp, made oatmeal, broke my spoon, and laid there so comfortably. I was warm, I was fed, I was so grateful for Roger and Brian helping me through this miserable weather, and I had plans to meet Camel for Breakfast at the Pancake House in the morning. I wasn’t scared anymore, I made it! What an incredible week to look back on, it’s been awhile since I did 4 nights without a resupply. Also kind of crazy that doing a marathon day after day weighted down constitutes my version of “taking it easy.” How normal this life has become.

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Sad day. I found this spoon in the hiker box at the most questionable “Trail Angels” compound in early May. RIP.

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I feel like getting to Snoqualmie Pass is a big accomplishment for Northbounders. We are about halfway through Washington, and the next 270 miles are said to be stunning (and thus extremely difficult). We are entering the Northern Cascades. The weather has turned on, so we will continue to do our best to co-exist with the low temps and rain, hoping to be granted as many views as the clouds will allow. As I hiked down to the Pass I felt such a large feeling of achievement, and I realized that from here on out I will be getting snippets of what Canada will feel like. Getting so close.

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Sucker cloud

Sucker cloud

The overall motivation level here amongst the hikers is low. Camel said it best, “I feel like a super-senior, doing whatever I can to stay in towns longer, like failing bowling 101.” Again, motivation is low. The weather is making things much tougher on us. Sure, we expected this, but it doesn’t make it easier. The positive I draw from it is how much easier it will make the end. I surely won’t miss it as much as I would if I glided to the finish amongst the soft sun and butterflies. It’s always an easier break-up when your boyfriend is an asshole towards the end, right? So thank you, Washington, for making it easier on us, in the long-term at least.

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To be honest, there were plenty of times I loved the misery of the weather. I felt pretty wild as I hiked through it and really strong as I tried to figure out ways to stay warm. I wouldn’t last longer than 5 minutes on one of those survivor shows, but I was really proud of myself for how I stuck it out. I didn’t even shed  a tear, just laughter. When things get really bad, laughter is my only way out. Yeah, I wouldn’t last very long on those survivor shows, mostly because I wouldn’t pass the psych test.

One reason I wanted to do the PCT, and a motivating component in which keeps me going, is delayed gratification. I love going a long time without daily occurrences. The gratification for these things is tripled when you are cold and wet for 4 days. Hands wrapped around a hot mug of coffee after a 100 mile stretch like that one? No greater feeling.

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Rumor has it we have one more storm and then a dry couple of weeks. I’ll take it. If you are a meteorologist or psychic and want to tell me otherwise, go for it. For once I am choosing to 100% believe in this rumor. After a shower, laundry, and a quality burger, my world has been turned around. I am excited to get back out there and hike with the elements again. I know I’ll get wet and my hands will be frozen to my trekking poles once more, but my confidence is high and this stretch is only 70 miles. 70 miles! A breeze!

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Goat Rocks: Photo Gallery

The Goat Rocks Wilderness area is so beautiful that it’s getting its own platform. As I traveled through the 30+ mile stretch I quickly realized how influential each mile would be. I was left speechless for the first time since the Sierra. I paused several times per minute allowing myself to breathe it all in – my eyes and smile wider than Washington. I was awe struck. I felt really small again, really insignificant, and really humbled. I wanted to experience it all; I never wanted it to end. The Goat Rocks are a magical place and I want to take everyone for a hike there, I want everyone to be impacted by the emotion I felt all day, I want everyone to smile that wide. Christmas morning, it was like Christmas morning.

Note: I saw no goats, but did see tons of rocks. Not the outcome I was hoping for but 1 outta 2 aint bad!

My next section is 100 miles to Snoqualmie Pass and it is looking quite wet. Washington is also entirely uphill. I feel good besides soreness in my feet each morning and the tingling of my nerves in my back. I just bought one of those stupid emergency ponchos and the cook at the pizza place gave me a trash bag. I may or may not be back after 100 miles. In the meantime, enjoy the photos! Toe Touch: out.

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This is Half-ass, he asked me to sign his flag. He started off my day

This is Half-ass, he asked me to sign his flag. He started off my day

Mt. Adams shooting off laser beams

Mt. Adams shooting off laser beams

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Eating some goldfish, staring at Mount St. Helens

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I took this same photo 5 years ago

I took this same photo 5 years ago

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The Knifes Edge

The Knifes Edge

Rainier

Rainier

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Camped on the windy rocky ridge

Camped on the windy rocky ridge

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Sunset

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Sunrise

Morning light

Sunrise

Sunrise

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Operation: Slow Down

Day: 140

Mile: 2,292.38

Location: The Mountain Goat Coffee Shop and Bakery — Packwood, Washington

Avocado Count: 54

Shower Count: 32

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Laura’s going to Canada. My sister Laura, the one getting married on October 1st, has booked her flight to Vancouver on September 18th to greet me at the finish line with beer and ice cream. I still can’t believe it, I often daydream of what my final day will look like, and now I actually have one solid foundation to that fantasy. With this being said, I need to slow down, a lot. She just added an entire week onto my hike! Haha leave it to Laura to take hold of my journey and control the very last part. I’ll for sure hit bad weather now, but I am so, so grateful that she is coming. Another positive is that now I HAVE to zero every chance I get. What a bummer! My body hurts and my feet hurt to touch the ground and now I HAVE to rest them. This means I’ll be spending a lot more money, but just like I’ve been telling everyone all summer “eh, I’ll make more money again someday.” So I’ll continue to spend my nights in golden robes in the lovely presidential suites at the Four Seasons.

Funny part about it is that the resupply points in Washington are no-nothing ski resorts or tiny “hick towns” as one guy told me. True to form, I’m so excited about it.

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Rewind: this section of my blog was written last week in Trout Lake, Washington.

I’m not sure what’s going on. I know that I’m in Washington somewhere, and I know that every step I take I get closer to realizing my goal. I would say I am getting one step closer to realizing my dream, but we all know I am living my dream every day, the dream is in the journey. The dream is allowing the sun to wake me up as I moan and groan, and then slowly getting ready for the day while half of me is still coiled up in my sleeping bag. A lot of pivoting goes on, a lot of pivoting. The dream is hiking all day, meeting up with old friends, and making new ones. My favorite part of the dream is when I am within a mile of where I hope to camp, my feet hurting but my body feeling light as I have accomplished so much. I wash my face, I wash my feet, I boil water, I write in my journal, I read my book, I eat my chocolate. My dream is in every moment of everyday. My dream is in the routine that I have come to love. The routine that exhausts me beyond comprehension, yet the dream that has left me with boundless energy.

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I can’t make up my mind. As I left Cascade Locks in the late afternoon, I was so high on life. I hiked 7 miles and the whole time was trying to figure out ways to make this last longer. How can I slow this down without sacrificing the physical challenge and accomplishment? Should I get to Canada, turn around, and hike down to see my friends? How hard would they laugh at me? What words and literary phrases would they use to describe the situation, would they all STILL go right over my head? This thought was squashed the next morning when I remembered how difficult it was to get out of my sleeping bag. Progressively more difficult.

Hiking over the Bridge of the Gods!

A bit drafty and buggy, but it's Washington for crying out loud, what did I expect?

A bit drafty and buggy, but it’s Washington for crying out loud, what did I expect?

It has continued to be warm, so I have continued to take advantage of it and am still starting my hike no later than 7:30. The mornings are so quiet and peaceful, especially in a really dense old-growth forest. On the first day there was not even a breeze to speak about, it was as silent as a day gets. Quietest day on the PCT I have had. I found 2 Starbucks instant coffee packets in the hiker box and thought they would be a great addition to my 80+ mile hike to Trout Lake. Surprisingly enough, I didn’t want them. The mornings were so quiet and peaceful, I didn’t want anything to disrupt that calm. I knew if I added caffeine to the mix I would feel a bit more intense, my thoughts would be quick and plenty, and I didn’t want that. I wanted to wake up naturally and walk slowly for the first few hours. There is just something so wonderfully magical about the forest in Washington. It’s unlike any other forest I’ve been in.

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My first full day in Washington I accomplished 31 miles and over 8,000 ft. in elevation gain. Kind of ridiculous. I didn’t mean it, really. Okay, maybe I did. I just wanted to complete a 30 mile day in every state, so I thought I’d get it out of the way early. What if I get hurt or sick? Got to take advantage of the beautiful weather and rested muscles while I can. The climbing didn’t seem too bad, at times I barely noticed I was going up. The trail was so soft and covered in a bed of pine needles. It was quality grade-A trail. No terrain is easier or more fun to hike on. I am around a bunch of new people again, both good and bad. There was a big festival in Cascade Locks that a lot of hikers hitched up (or down) to, and most left the same day I did. Another motivation of my initial big day was to get ahead of the group. There’s plenty of people ahead of me for sure, but the people behind me were definitely the party people, and I kind of just wanted to get some space between us. How anti-social is THAT! Oh well, a big reason of choosing to do this particular long trail is because of the solitude it offers, the remoteness. I like to hike and camp alone now-a-days. I like to be social in town and along the way on the trail. At night I like to make my own spot to camp on, both because I feel wilder and because I know someone won’t come in and set up right next to me and snore all night. Anti-social is what I’ve become but I don’t care one bit. I love this style of hiking and it fits me well. I also have less than 400 miles to go and darnnit I’m gonna hike however I want. It’s my one shot, and I’m going to do what makes me happiest. It’s also that fear that if I change things up now that I will lose control and possibly not finish. I think that is true with everyone in one way or another. We get so used to doing something one way that we get scared to switch it up, especially when it’s close to completion, as if we’ll lose all control and all our work will crumble. I have hiked in so many different ways this summer and I am ready to finish up in this manner. With that being said, I bet something will swoop in and change it drastically soon enough. If that’s the case, I’ll roll with it. Because on the other hand, “what the heck.”

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My second day in Washington I aimed for another 30, I got 29.5 in and saw a prime spot so I grabbed it. It was wonderful until when, in the middle of the night, a bear came by for a visit. The night before a little mouse frolicked into my tent and jumped all over me, doing tricks even Simone Biles couldn’t pull off. It was hilarious, and the mouse was adorable, I appreciated its abundant energy. I was just laying there reading so I got to watch the whole mouse show as I sat up and said “hey you, get outta here wouldja!” “come on now, get!” My second zipper broke on my screen door so it’s an open invite to critters.

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Oh right, the bear. I forgot about bears and the perils. Not much to worry about in Oregon, so this woke me up a bit. The sound of a bear walking around is vastly different from a dumb deer, vastly. I didn’t have to look out to know what it was. Loud thuds, bears are heavy, bears are in Washington. Damnit. I was half-asleep as I threw my coconut oil into my backpack as if that would make any difference. I felt very vulnerable with a broken door, but I somehow fell back asleep pretty quickly. Maybe because I doubled up on Magnesium that night. In the morning I took out my magnifying glass and looked for bear prints. Okay fine I don’t have a magnifying glass and the last piece of equipment you need when looking for bear footprints is a magnifying glass, but it sets a good image right? Anyways, I didn’t see any, mostly because I wasn’t camped on impressionable soil, dirt, or sand. If I had a choice I’d let a mouse run over me every night then have to listen to a bear stomping around while I’m trying to get my beauty sleep. I’d choose a mouse every.time.

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The countdown is on.

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Randomly on one of the days I met Nancy. Nancy is Michelle’s mom. Following? No? That’s because Nancy came out of nowhere. I crossed a bridge and there she was, standing in front of her car. She said “Hey! You need anything?” I hesitated, my initial answer to that question is always no, because I never NEED anything, I’m completely self-sufficient, one of my favorite traits acquired this summer. I looked at her and smiled and asked what she was up too. She said she is waiting for her daughter Michelle to get there, she is heading Southbound. She is there to give her food and drinks for the next section. She asked me again if I needed anything. This question was getting harder. She didn’t give me options, which would have made for an easier answer. I made a lot of unsure sounds like “ahhhhhh ehhhhh i meannnnnnn maybeeeeeeee??? but no thank you I’m fine, I have all I need.” Nancy felt my resistance, saw right through me. She said “HERE, take this soda and bag of trail mix and keep going! get out of here would ya! you have miles to hike dontcha!” I felt like I was at a water stop for the longest race ever. It felt good, I felt like a professional endurance athlete. She shoved them in my hand and I screamed a high-pitched THANK YOU” as I raced away, just as she wanted me to. I passed Michelle 2 miles later and told her that her mother is a saint. She laughed and said yes, yes she is.

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After my night with the bear, I hiked 15 miles to the extremely special town of Trout Lake. Trout Lake is a 13 mile hitch down a forest service road. When I got to the road, I met Trail Angels Coppertone and Jerry. Coppertone is known among the PCT community for following the thick of the pack all summer and making us ROOT BEER FLOATS. Jerry is a newcomer to the trail angeling world and had tons of snacks and sausages cooking. I hung out with them and met 5 new hikers relaxing around the spread. Proton and DreamCatcher had a friend coming to pick them up to take them into Trout Lake and invited me along. We got into town and had lunch together at the Cafe. These guys were so great and we became friends quickly. They had other friends already in town and before I knew it I was surrounded by a ton of new, hilarious, and really outgoing hikers. It was a typical town lunch filled with laughter, conversation, and mockery of the trail. Proton snuck up and paid my bill, hikers are so generous. We receive so much support and generosity from trail angels that we immediately start paying it forward towards other hikers and the communities we land in. It’s an incredible circle of humanity.

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Hiker from Boston!

A hiker from Boston!

As I have mentioned in previous posts, Trout Lake means a lot to me because it is where we were based out of for our summer doing Trail Work with AmeriCorps. It was in this town where someone told me what P.C.T. stood for. It was in this town where I saw my first real mountain (Adams). It was in this town where I learned what Organic food was. It was in this town where I met Chuckles and Camel. It was in this town where I learned how to backpack. It was in this town where I was rewarded for good, honest, hard-work. It was in this town where I fully realized the true meaning of volunteering. The biggest risk I ever took was applying and accepting the position as “Trail Crew Team Member” for the Northwest Service Academy, getting on a plane for my first time out West, and embarking on a life in the elements. All brand new. Zero experience. Just a good feeling.

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I felt like I made it home. I made it back to Trout Lake all the way from Mexico. I’d been in touch with one of the old coordinators for the trail crew program, and friend, Katie. I am currently at her house now. Her and her husband have welcomed me into their home, given me full access to laundry, shower, a bed, and their refrigerator. Angels. They have 2 adorable boys who I got to hang out with on Friday and we kicked the soccer ball around and got Huckleberry milkshakes. Trout Lake is tiny, it is a general store, cafe, local watering hole, and post office. Mt. Adams watches over the town providing some of the best town scenery one can find. It’s the simple life, the type of town I think we all deep down fantasize living in. I am lucky enough to have lived here, and to know the amazing souls who have made a life here.

Need more?

Need more?

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The ole mess hall!

The ole mess hall!

I thought I would only spend 1 night, but Katie made me so comfortable that I am extending my stay. Tonight is the last “pizza party” at Debbie and Rods house. They have a wood-fired oven and invite the whole town over every Friday night in the summer. They roll out the dough, all you have to do is bring your own toppings and a dessert to share if you wish. When I heard that I just couldn’t leave! Also, Camel should be coming into town today, and it would be great to see him here!

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I found Camel! Being as Italian as ever

I found Camel! Being as Italian as ever

Decisions are hard when you're hungry, so everything, I put EVERYTHING on my pizza

Decisions are hard when you’re hungry, so everything, I put EVERYTHING on my pizza

Okay fast forward! I wrote all of that from Trout Lake, I am now in Packwood at the said cafe. Clearly, I found Camel and we had a blast at the neighborhood pizza party. All of the ingredients were locally sourced and the cheese made by the local cheese guy (who has made it quite big in the 5 years since I’ve last been here, ever hear of Cascadia Creamery?).  It was a great way to end my time in Trout Lake, and after Katie made us pancakes in the morning, her husband Ian drove us to the trailhead.

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Sketchy, at best.

Sketchy, at best.

Camel and I hiked the first couple of hours together talking more than we both have probably talked in 2 months. We’ve both made lots of friends since the Mile 55 split, but still mostly fly solo. During the conversation I think I successfully followed 1 movie/literary reference. That’s really good for me. Applause is not only appreciated, but required. Thank you, thank you. The rest of the day I hiked and picked huckleberries. I was eating so many I kept hearing my moms voice “you’re eating so many huckleberries you’re going to turn INTO A HUCKLEBERRY!” Much like she tells my dad “you’re going to turn INTO A BURGER.” So I naturally thought of Violet Beauregarde and how funny it would be if that really happened to people after eating too much of one thing. I then crossed a river that looked like chocolate and just gave in and recited the whole movie in my head. You can understand my surprise coming back into service and seeing that Gene Wilder had passed. So strange.

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The Chocolate River! RIP, Gene Wilder

The Chocolate River! RIP, Gene Wilder

Breakfast for dinner with my gather of the day!

Breakfast for dinner with my gather of the day!

The day had some really lovely clouds that turned really dark in the late afternoon. As dark as some were, they still didn’t seem threatening and I knew they would blow away quickly. It’s a good thing that ended up being true, because the following day we entered the Goat Rocks Wilderness, the only other area on the trail that you can even compare to the Sierra. I’ve worked in the Goat Rocks before, but I was still wildly excited. I knew I’d be seeing it from a different perspective this time. I’d been looking forward to this day for a really long time.

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The Goat Rocks was such an incredible day that it is getting its own photo gallery blog post. I will have that up later today with a paragraph about the section. I am currently taking a zero here in Packwood. Yesterday I hitched the 20 miles into town with a guy named Arnold. Arnold was driving a slaughter truck. It was big, loud, and stinky. I was with my friend Green Bean and when he pulled over she was like oh no, no no no, you go for it, I’ll get the next one, I don’t support that. Green Bean is a vegan. You couldn’t write this stuff.

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Thanks for the package Bailey!!

The good news is that I’m still alive. Everything about getting in that slaughter truck SHOULD have seemed like the wrong thing to do. But it didn’t feel wrong, it felt oddly normal, like I climb up into slaughter trucks with guys named Arnold on the daily. He’s a really nice guy by the way, Arnold. He was envious of my adventure, he says he’s been in the slaughtering business his whole life and that “it’s a living, not a life.” Well said, Arnold, well said.

Save

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Exit:Oregon

Day: 132

Mile: 2,144.2

Location: Thee HISTORIC Cascade Locks, Oregon

Avocado Count: 54

Shower Count: 30

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I kid you not, I spent several miles wondering if I could get away with introducing myself as “ToeTouch2000.” I’ve been too insecure on the idea to put it through trial, but since it just made this opening paragraph I suppose I still think it’s the coolest idea. There’s not many trail registers on the PCT, but in the next one I’m signing it ToeTouch2000, so get excited for THAT, trail friends.

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It took me 8 days to walk 1.5 miles, but I finally made it to the 2,000 mark. Laura’s Bach party was incredibly fun and I don’t think it could have gone smoother. She asked me at one point if I was experiencing any culture shock and I lied and said NOPE IM GOOD IM FINE. Just like our mom taught us, “ohh it’s just a little white lie, it won’t harm anyone!”

Troop Beverly Hills! 7 mile hike -- Beehive Basin

Troop Beverly Hills! 7 mile hike — Beehive Basin

Truth is, while I was at the cabin I was completely fine and had a blast with everyone, but it was the drive that shook me a bit. I spent my sweet time driving from Bend to Bozeman (13 hours). I listened to a ton of top hits on the radio and felt really relieved to know that nothing has changed in our world: Justin Timberlake still owns every station. What made me feel a little “off” was all the shopping centers I passed. So clean cut, so uniform, so big. So much stuff, why do we have sooo much stuff? It’s unreal, it gave me a nauseous feeling knowing people spend the day at these huge stores shopping for things they don’t need. Then go to the chain restaurant in the same plaza for lunch and are surrounded by people who don’t look you in the eye — who pass you by without a smile — who accidentally bump into you because they are doing a million things at once — who order a meal while talking on the phone. I mean, where’s the fist bump? Can I get a toe touch?!?

Just when I thought you were the COOL state Oregon

Just when I thought you were the COOL state Oregon

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Okay, I don’t expect a fist bump, but you hopefully see my dilemma. As Dreamer told me in Bend “this trip to Montana will be a great trial for your reintroduction back into the normal world.” He was right, it WAS a great trial. I learned that it will indeed be an adjustment period, and I will have to do my best to slowly accept that not everybody will want to talk to me and that most everybody will have their head down in their phone or at the ground. The nice part is that my efforts to connect and engage with people will continue, and I know that there are so many amazing people outside the trail world that will make me really happy. But the shopping centers, the shopping centers will continue to freak me out. I’m not sure I’ll ever be comfortable near one again. I’m gonna need to hire a personal shopper. Gah.

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On my way back from Montana I spent the night in Boise so I could resupply at a Trader Joes. Well, an hour after leaving Boise I stopped for gas in Oregon. The nice man was filling up my tank (it’s illegal to pump your own gas in Oregon) and I realized I didn’t have my sandwich bag of money (my ‘purse’). I started to get teary eyed by my mistake. I looked at him and apologized; I couldn’t pay for this. I called the motel and luckily they found it in my room. The cashier voided it as a “drive-off” and was SUPER nice about it. “These things happennn sweetie, don’t worryyyy about it, just get back here before the end of the day with the cash or I’ll have to call you in.” Haha, call me in? Could you IMAGINE?! With everything the trail has thrown at me, I would have had to quit because I didn’t pay for my gas. Classic Jules.

For brunch I made "Cinnamon Roll French Toast Casserole" all of Laura's favorite words in a form that she can eat.

For brunch I made “Cinnamon Roll French Toast Casserole” — all of Laura’s favorite words in a form that she can eat.

Since I am NOT writing this from a jail cell, I successfully paid for my gas within a few hours (I’m such a mature adult!), but the backtracking was completely and hilariously appropriate for this summer. Mile 55’s motto is “No New Miles.” This should be obvious since we named our crew after backtracking and hiking the 55th mile 3 times, among MANY other backtracking instances. Every morning we would pack up camp and Camel would yell “alright team! No new miles today! I expect NO new miles out of anyone!” And surely enough, one of us would find ourselves backtracking for one obscure reason or another. We’d vent about it over dinner and the group would give full support for the mishap, and then completely judge them. What an idiot! Can you BELIEVE that guy! (thumb pointing). So backtracking to Boise made more sense than it should of, and didn’t bother me one bit.

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After a week of little activity and lots of dairy, sugar, and alcohol, I got back to the trail feeling pretty weighed down. I started hiking at noon on Tuesday and accomplished 22 miles — it was okay. I had a light dinner of the most anti-inflammatory foods I know of and then an extra shot of turmeric and ginger coconut milk. I knew it was going to take a few days for my body to feel good again, so in taking Bear Claws advice for coming back after a long break, I “embraced the suck.” Just another challenge of the summer, I knew returning to the trail after a luxurious weekend of all my favorite things was going to be TOUGH. All the things I miss the most from home were somehow captured in that weekend, so going back to such an extreme lifestyle was a transition that I knew would test me. Luckily, I missed the trail, and was excited to get back to the movement and the ground. I actually couldn’t wait to get dirty and sweaty again, I felt really soft, and as it turns out, I don’t like feeling soft. Faith over fear, right Karyn?

Sardines and Avocado dinner, feeling like ToeTouch:DesertEdition

Sardines and Avocado dinner, feeling like ToeTouch:DesertEdition

Whoop whoop! Party!!

Whoop whoop! Party!!

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3 Fingered Jack

3 Fingered Jack

So I get to the 2,000 mile marker, Woohoo! And guess who is sitting there with a box of lucky charms, bottle of wine, and reeses peanut butter cups? Yeah I didn’t know her either. Her name is Slo-Mo and I met her for the first time, but guess where she is from? BREWSTER, NEW YORK. That’s the same area code as me! And you know what trail number we just passed a sign for? 845. It was pretty gnarly. She’s only 22 so we don’t have any mutual friends, but she was awesome and was waiting there for her buddy. I haven’t seen her since.

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I woke up the next morning and almost collapsed. My feet were SO sore. Really ToeTouch2000? 22 measly miles yesterday and now ya can’t walk? Should you call a carriage to come and escort you to Canada? Maybe they can feed you grapes during the ride, huh? How about that? PULL IT TOGETHER!

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It took 3 miles, but they loosened up. I wasn’t very pleased, but again, I knew there’d be ailments. Another one was back chafing, something I really haven’t had on the whole hike. Now I am going to use this term VERY loosely, but I don’t know how else to describe it: I felt ‘fat and out of shape.’ I was all swelled up (both inside and out), my breathing was very shallow, and my heart would start racing after only a few steps uphill. It was awful. Never again, I will do whatever it takes to not feel this way hiking ever again. This lasted 75 miles. On the fourth day my feet finally felt better, the inflammation went down significantly, and to put it plainly, Toe Touch got her groove back! I was dancing again, skipping around, marveling at the mountains, talking to all the weird bugs and asking them why they are so weird, and being just an absolute darling to all the weekend hikers. It was the breakthrough I was working towards, and I’m so glad the readjustment period is over, and am really proud I didn’t sacrifice any miles, I picked up right where I left off, 30’s. Phew.

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Milky water from the glacial run-off. Might not wanna drink this

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After 95 miles I made it to a place I’ve been wanting to see for 5 years: Timberline Lodge, at the base of Mt. Hood. My goal was to get there for lunch and a cocktail. After a pretty nice climb, I arrived at the lodge around 1pm. It was flooded with tourists, but nothing too outrageous. I changed into my “nice” town clothes (clothes that I don’t hike in but that  still smell, they just don’t smell AS bad and aren’t covered in dust). I went to the Blu Ox Bar mainly because I smelled something delicious and followed that scent. It led me to a lower level hole in the wall pizza bar, it was a dream come true. I had a lemon-basil ginger vodka soda (their cocktail of the day) and a salad.

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Walking through Jefferson Park

Walking through Jefferson Park

Before I ordered I heard “Julie?” I ignored it, surely someone didn’t know my REAL name in here. Then again, “Julie??” This time I turned around and yelled to the bar “ALRIGHT! WHO IN HERE KNOWS MY BIRTH NAME?!? Huh?!?” I’m kidding, I didn’t yell that, but how aggressive would THAT have been! I gently turned toward the voice and it was Sarah and her dad! They are doing the Oregon section of the PCT together for 4 weeks! I met them a few miles before Crater Lake. They skipped some sections and are, in their words, doing the “lazy resort to resort PCT hike” haha they are certainly enjoying themselves. We talked for awhile but they were spending 2 days at the lodge so I knew that’d be the last time I saw them. Sarah is 25 and her dad is probably early 60’s and they are both shocked they haven’t killed each other yet, it was one of the sweetest things I’ve witnessed all summer. Hey Bob, whaddya say, me and you next summer! I’ll bring the crosswords you bring the credit card! We’re gonna need a lot of burgers!

Sarah, her dad, Paul Bunyan, and Babe

Sarah, her dad, Paul Bunyan, and Babe

Climbing up to the lodge, Mt Hood getting really big

Climbing up to the lodge, Mt Hood getting really big

I spent 5 hours catching up with friends and walking around the lodge. They didn’t have a general store of any type and I was all out of snacks (breakfast and lunch). I had to get creative: Vending Machine resupply it was.

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I had 45 miles to the next town and all I had were 2 dinners and 2 cliff bars. I don’t require much, but I need more than THAT. So here you have it folks, at mile 2,116, ToeTouch2000 (has it stuck yet?) sat down in the dirt, back against a log, and ate her first PCT pop-tart. And you know what? It tasted just as good as it did when I was 13. Although I miss the foil wrapper, the blue plastic wrapper makes me feel like a millennial.

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Little Crater Lake, still creepy even the second time around

Little Crater Lake, still creepy even the second time around

Thanks for spelling that out for us, sign. We must be a really dumb demographic.

Thanks for spelling that out for us, sign. Being a thru-hiker I don’t know how to read, write, or follow instructions.

Later that day, my last full hiking day in Oregon, I met Nathan. Nathan is 20, going into his 3rd year at Princeton, and has spent his month thru-hiking the state of Oregon. Nathan completely reinstalled my faith in that age-group. We talked about so many subjects and in such depth that by the time I looked at the time 2.5 hours had gone by. We talked a lot about choices, lifestyles, holistic nutrition, thruhiking, and the differences between the community we are used to back East, and the community of the trail.

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What's the over/under on me eating these M&M's I found on trail?

What’s the over/under on me eating these M&M’s I found on trail?

Our conversation could have been on a lifestyles podcast. I’m not sure how, but he got me talking A LOT. I listen to so many podcasts and read so many articles, but rarely do I get a chance to talk about them with someone, so it was really beneficial to discuss the things that mean the most to me with a fantastic listener. I was also surprised on how much I’ve retained over the last couple years of research, it felt good to realize that a lot of it is in the vault upstairs!

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Nathan is such a smart kid, and an incredible listener because I definitely got going on certain topics and am not sure I took many breathes between sentences. Nathan said something that particularly resignated with me, he said, “I love talking about the power of choosing and the control we have on it, I believe there is a certain religion in choosing, and that once you make that BIG choice, everything thereafter falls into place. Take this hike for example, once you CHOOSE to thru-hike, everything will fall into place. You just have to wake up and CHOOSE to be enthusiastic and positive about the day.” I can’t wait to see what adventures this kid gets into, he’s got such a great grip on life and is already so aware of his surroundings. You wanna know how aware of my surroundings I was at 20?

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Nathan took a break at the next good looking log he saw and I continued on. We both thanked each other for a great conversation and were certainly grateful for each other’s company that afternoon. I pray a lot, and one of the things I pray for most is for God to bring the right people into my life, at the time when I need them most. I usually don’t realize why I needed them until they are gone, and then I reflect and understand how big of a role they played, and yes, how much I did need them, and how grateful I am for the lessons they taught me.

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What's the over/under on me eating this dog biscuit I found on trail?

What’s the over/under on me eating this dog biscuit I found on trail?

I hiked a few more miles and then said screw it, here’s a good looking flat spot. It was only 6:00 but my last night in Oregon, and I was ready to enjoy it. This week I approached the trail as more of an “everyday living” type of life. Does that make sense? No? Okay well basically, instead of really roughing it and saving daily practices for town, I began to take my time and take better care of myself and my things. I took more time at night with my feet, I washed my face better, I fixed little things concerning my gear, I did planks and push-ups, I made dinner slowly, and I stayed really organized. This is, after all, my life.

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I’ve managed to keep some of the same morning rituals I had while living in Jackson: my morning shot of apple cider vinegar, coconut oil pulling, water chugging, unbraiding and rebraiding my hair, and putting on the SAME clothes I wore the day before. Instead of going to work I hike 30 miles. Instead of getting home and going running, I set up my tent and take care of my body and belongings. I make dinner, filter my water for the next day, write in my journal, make my golden milk, snuggle into my sleeping bag, put a handful (or 2 or 3) of chocolates on my stomach, I read my current “NY Times Best-Selling” paperback that I got at the thrifty for 25 cents, I brush my teeth and spit it out of my tent, I roll back over, thank the lord for another day, thank my body, mind, and heart for another day, kill a few bugs, and fall asleep. Go ahead and tell me my routine is that far off from yours? It felt really good to truly get back to LIVING outside again because let’s face it, there’s nothing more fulfilling to me. It feels so natural. It makes me so happy.

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Oh, right, my last night in Oregon! If you remember, I spent my last night in California on a windy, rocky ridge with incredible views of sunset and sunrise closing out the state perfectly. Oregon ended with its best features as well: in a warm forest, with a view of a tree stump, listening to dead branches fall down all around me, and surrounded by weird bugs. It was perfect. I couldn’t even see the stars the forest was so thick and green. I slept in and got my latest start in almost 2 months: 8:30.image

I took the Eagle Creek Trail out to Cascade Locks, about 15 miles.  Since my vending machine resupply wasn’t ideal, I had only 1 cliff bar left. I ate it over the course of an hour, about 5 miles in. For whatever reason I was still hungry, and an hour later had a couple spoonfuls of coconut oil, the only source of calories left in my pack (besides my huge bag of spices, I take my spice kit very seriously). I’ve done this before, eaten too much coconut oil…it gives me a stomach-ache everytime. I get strangely defensive when it comes to coconut oil and I always have its back, so I usually blame it on bad water. But if I’m being honest with myself my stomach hurts because I just ate spoonfuls of straight OIL. Did I THINK that’d go over well? A little coconut oil is definitely very good for you, but when it’s in its solid form I forget how much I’m really ingesting, and that’s where it bites me in the ass.

Naturally, being from New York, I took out my knife, ripped it to shreds, and then stomped on it with my foot. 😉

Naturally, being from New York, I took out my knife, ripped it to shreds, and then stomped on it with my foot. 😉

Anyways, I made the clif bar and coconut oil work and as I walked into town Rant (one of the Warriors and Combat Vets) messaged me asking where I was. It was super weird because I was just searching for his number to see where they were that. Rather perfectly, they were at the Ale House with pitchers of craft beer and pizza. They generously took care of everything and it was so great to see them again. Rant says I’m the “daughter he never wanted” and I say he’s the “drunk uncle I never wanted.” We recapped the section, called Cheryl Strayed a quitter (sorry Cheryl, we didn’t mean it, well, Rant probably did), and went off. I couldn’t imagine a better introduction into a town after a long stretch.

The Warriors!

The Warriors!

Looks like a lot of hikers have been here...

Looks like a lot of hikers have been here…

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The Eagle Creek trail was spectacular, so many amazing waterfalls in a luscious green environment. It was an extremely ideal way to say goodbye to this state. Oregon started off pretty rough: lots of down trees, flat areas, no views, mosquitoes, all around boredom. But after 200 miles the crystal clear lakes became frequent, the volcanic mountains became monstrous as we inched closer, the forests became softer, the waterfalls became prominent. By the end of Oregon I was pretending I was living in the Jungle Book. If that doesn’t sum it up for ya, you’re on your own.

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Got a death wish?

Got a death wish?

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The community, resorts, and towns in Oregon blew me away. So friendly, so supportive, so interested. I met so many section hikers this month, a ton of PCT South-Bounders (most started started in Canada early July), and even more weekend warriors. I didn’t get rained on ONCE. Okay fine, I got hit by 3 drops the MOMENT I touched the highway for my 8 day break, how OBNOXIOUS is that! I wasn’t going to mention it because I don’t want to jinx myself for the wettest state of all, Washington. Big bad Washington. Big mountains, wild weather, remoteness, and the best part of the trail. 504.5 miles till Canada.

Caught blue handed...I ate SO many wild huckleberries and blueberries

Caught blue handed…I ate SO many wild huckleberries and blueberries

It took me a while to read this...getting crafty huh south-bounders!

It took me a while to read this…getting crafty huh south-bounders!

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Just please, do me a favor, and I say this as nicely as it can sound through text…please don’t say I’m “almost done.” 1. It makes me very sad (I am going to miss this so much) and 2. It’s just not true. I still have a very large state left, and this particular state will be physically challenging, unlike Oregon, it’s mentally challenging brother. It may seem like we are racing through miles now, but with all the climbing and shorter days coming up, my daily mileage is sure to decrease. The miles seem to be getting longer, I actually thought I crossed into a different time zone on Saturday the day was going by so slowly — “surely it’s not only 10Am, it’s gotta be at LEAST noon! Come on! But yes, in the scheme of things I am almost done, it’s just a scary thought is all.

Ramona Falls, our crew put those rocks in at the approach 5 years ago!

Ramona Falls, our crew put those rocks in at the approach 5 years ago!

This is Susan, she is probably 70, has a huge pack, wears a bonnet, and told me I walked through her backyard in Mt. Laguna (day 3). I love this trail.

This is Susan, she is probably 70, has a huge pack, wears a bonnet, and told me I walked through her backyard in Mt. Laguna (day 3). I love this trail.

Last state! I’ll cross the iconic Bridge of the Gods, tip my trucker hat to Oregon, and immediately climb back up to elevation. But not after an extremely large soft serve ice cream cone because it’s been Hot! Hot! Hot! here in Oregon this week…high 90’s! But don’t worry, I STILL have my umbrella, I’ve used it twice all summer but can’t get myself to ship it home. And the winner for most USELESS piece of gear goes toooo….

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Answers: I ate the M&Ms, and would have eaten the biscuit if there wasn’t a paw print on it. Rock bottom = Nothing left to lose. 👍

Let’s Just Say 2,000, Shall We?


Day: 120

Location: Boise, Idaho (wait, what?)

Mile: 1998.5 (gah.)

Showers: 27

Avocados: 45

Quick Note: occasionally I’ll post this blog from a desktop at a library, and when I do all the pictures show up upside down. I then read it on my iPhone and all the photos look fine. So if you read my blog only from a desktop, no, I don’t pour a bottle of whiskey into my coffee before publishing this.

When the trail gets you down, strangers lift you up.

I love Ashland, and I can’t wait to go back and buy an old Victorian home with all the money I’m making this summer.

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After totally geeking out at the really cheap and amazing organic market, I got 3 new secret weapons for the week (I usually only have 1 secret weapon, but I couldn’t stop myself). The store had both apple cider vinegar and coconut oil in BULK. Filled up on those and grabbed some local Grass-fed cheese, ready for Oregon!

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Friday morning I went to the popular breakfast joint in Ashland (Morning Glory) and sat myself at the breakfast bar. The number of breakfast counters I’ve sat at this summer is very high, which makes me really happy because there is nothing more fun for me. I got a HUGE breakfast and the pancakes were topped with lemon butter. Lemon.Butter. It was possibly the best breakfast of my life. An older gentlemen named Miles sat next to me. I started small talk and before I knew it he was giving me a book to read. This book is called “Our Souls At Night” by Kent Haruf. I had just bought a new book at the library (1 buck!), but felt there was a reason he was offering me this book. I told him I would love to read it as long as he took my book to read or pass along to someone. He was really grateful for the exchange, and then started talking about how he was bullied when he was younger. Unfortunately, he seemed like a sad man, and the book he gave me is also a little sad, and as I am almost done with it, I still am not sure why he wanted me to read it. I’ll continue to search for the meaning and if I really can’t find one I’ll make something up! As we left the restaurant he nervously offered me a ride to the trail (you could tell he didn’t want to make me feel uncomfortable by offering a ride, a trait I totally respect) but I had already called my Geologist friend Ray to come pick me up, so we said goodbye and he wished me well. I hope something really good happens to Miles today, something really, really good.

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Ray dropped me at the trail at noon and it was HOT. The trail was pretty crappy for those 20 miles. I saw some friends at the only water stop and hung out for a bit. I spent the next 2 days doing 30 milers, being relatively bored of the flat and forested trail, playing limbo with all the down trees, adding lots of steps going all the way around them, trying not to scratch myself on the bark, and being sad about how UN-agile I am with a backpack on. I wanted to pretend I was training for American Ninja Warrior, and as I approached each log I pictured myself hurdling them, or doing front handsprings, or even at the very least treating them like a steeplechase —  but I just ended up belly-rolling over these huge trees like I don’t have one ounce of athleticism in me. I also made a lot of “gahhh” noises. It was a pathetic 60 miles.

A water fountain? Where am I?? The MALL

A water fountain? Where am I?? The MALL

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I like to call these types of obstacles, the "quad-burners"

I like to call these types of obstacles, the “quad-burners”

I got to Crater Lake on Monday afternoon and immediately went to the restaurant. There was an all-you-can-eat salad bar which also included Bison Chili and a Nacho Bar? Why even spend time looking at the menu? Waiter-man get me a PLATE! As I sat down with my first salad a gentlemen (I’m kicking myself for forgetting his name) sat down at the table next to me. My legs were completely covered in dirt, way worse than normal because when I wasn’t rolling over the trees I was on my knees crawling under them. He quickly noticed and asked if I was out for a hike — hah! “Yeah, a long one, sorry that I am so dirty and you have to sit near me.” He didn’t mind, he was blown away by my hike and couldn’t get enough information out of me. Part of me really wanted to focus on my lovely meal I’ve been dreaming about, but early on in the conversation he said he had just lost his wife and isn’t used to traveling alone. There was no way I was going to let this sweet man eat by himself. I answered all of his questions throroughly, and asked a bunch myself. He was so adorable, and he couldn’t stop telling me how inspired he was by my long solo journey. He couldn’t wait to look at the maps and plan his next hike, he came in looking rather lost and left really bright-eyed. Usually I’m uncertain of how people REALLY feel when I tell them that yes, I am doing this alone, but it was clear that he found it really admirable and inspiring, which made me even more confident and grateful for our interaction.

[[*Note: I finally became confident in saying this, I no longer give the extended version of starting with a group of friends, I finally don’t care how people view my decision to go off alone, I am finally proud to say that yes, I.am.alone. Took long enough huh?]]

Cheerleaders come in all shapes and sizes, alive or dead

Cheerleaders come in all shapes and sizes, alive or dead

Trail magic on a rather dull day! Perked me right up

Trail magic on a rather dull day! Perked me right up

He asked if he could take a picture of me, I laughed and said of course! As long as I could have one of him. I would never, under any other circumstance take this awkward photo otherwise, just want everyone to know that. This was the first of MANY encounters with the tourists at Crater Lake National Park.

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My plan was to get a meal, get my resupply boxes (a candle and the Poughkeepsie Journal from Clairebear and healthy treats and a BURGER BANDANNA from Alicia and Fand! And of course, an inspiring letter from Erin and Momma T!), and then hike a few more miles. Plans don’t normally work out, and this was no exception. There is a fire on the west side of the lake and part of the trail was closed, but I thought I could get away with hiking a bit. I’m glad I didn’t leave that evening because they shut down the whole PCT Rim Trail an hour later. It was a weird moment, my bag was packed, I said goodbye to everyone, and started to leave the parking lot. I stopped after 3 minutes, paused, and turned back around. It just didn’t feel right, I listened to my instinct and stayed put till morning.

I guessed my arrival back in April, NAILED IT

I guessed my arrival back in April, NAILED IT

This is Honey from Arkansas, her friend just sent her a POM POM. I haven't seen her since the 2nd week of the trail!

This is Honey from Arkansas, her friend just sent her a POM POM. I haven’t seen her since the 2nd week of the trail!

Classic Erin inspirational boost!

Classic Erin inspirational boost!

Thanks Ma!

Thanks Ma!

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Crater Lake is awesome in that they have a specific section where Hikers can camp for 5 dollars and they offer free showers! Basically they give us a patch of woods across from the actual campground and tell us to find a flat spot. I set up my tent and went to take a shower. I ran into Monique and Bert again and Bert was so excited about his recent purchase. You see, when I first met Bert I looked at his pack and couldn’t believe what I was seeing. I thought I was dreaming, but yes, yes that is a glass bottle of wine in his side pocket of his backpack. This guy packs out a full bottle of wine? Belgians rule.

Anyways he just bought a new bottle of wine, but this bottle of wine is made for “outdoor enthusiasts” and is PLASTIC. He was so happy. I can’t wait to see them on trail again.

Ya don't say!

Ya don’t say!

I was 5th in line for the shower. The 4 people in front of me were car campers and they fired away with questions about my life. Pretty obvious ones at first, but after awhile the questions always get better. I didn’t mind this Q&A because most were coming from a very handsome English boy. He is on a 2-month road trip around Canada and the West Coast, he lives in London and is getting his PHD in Philosophy, should of saw THAT coming! His whole line of study is based around the question “why?” We hit it off, skipped our showers, hopped in his car and headed for Vegas. I am now married to an English Scholar. My tent is still in Crater Lake. Mom, I’M KIDDING.

Sweet Pea said she had to take a picture of me because I looked SO happy on this trolley with my coffee

Sweet Pea said she had to take a picture of me because I looked SO happy on this trolley with my coffee

After a wonderful warm shower, I dried off with my “Burger Bandana” (thanks fand and lee!) and headed back to my tent. I passed a group of hikers around the fire and it smelled like they were practicing their hobbies, hobbies in which I’m not very much into, so I decided to go hang outside the general store with a couple of beers. Beers, picnic tables, and hikers, now I feel more comfortable! I caught up with Old School and got the gossip of the break-up of her group. I knew the 4 of them pretty well, they actually were the guys who saw me at my absolute lowest physical point. It was during the snow storm in the Sierra when my lips were inflamed, my eyes were bloodshot, and I had mild hypothermia. They are all good people because they continue to talk to me after witnessing me at my craziest. Old School is now hiking solo and after just 2 sips of my beer I wanted all the dirt. My life has a negative amount of drama right now, so whenever I can get my hands on someone else’s drama, I eat it up.

Today's pretend lunch: Braised Rack of Lamb

Today’s pretend lunch: Braised Rack of Lamb

We were all bummed the Rim Trail was closed but I was telling everyone that if we all believe it will open in the morning, then gosh darnit IT WILL open in the morning! The power of positivity! Picnic table to picnic table I was rallying the troops. When morning came, it wasn’t open. Man I’m obnoxious.

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I knew one thing, I wasn’t going to wait around all day HOPING it would open. It’s a wildfire for crying out loud, they aren’t going to open and close it by the hour. Old School, Willy Wa, Shantyman and I hopped on the trolley and headed to the Rim Village. It was here when we finally saw the lake, and it wasn’t as clear as I remember. The smoke filled the sky and completely blurred most of it out, it was so sad. BUT we all still agreed, we freakin’ walked here from Mexico, that is still something to feel really good about.

No go.

No go.

Hitch-hiking is illegal in National Parks (bummer) so the only way around the fire was to ask strangers for a ride using our words, not our thumbs. I went off solo, and if I got a ride with a family who had extra room, I’d ask if they could bring my friends. My strategy was to play it really cool, not come off like a hobo, and smile a lot, but not too much. Look sad, but act positive. There was a nice looking family sitting outside of the RimVillage Cafe, they looked approachable so I went for it. Hey, I showered last night with soap AND I have a coffee in my hand, I got this! I introduced myself and asked if they were driving around the East Side of the Rim, they said they were but were planning to stop for a quick waterfall hike. I said that sounds delightful and if they were still willing to give me a ride to let me know after they finished their coffee. I left after we talked a little about the PCT and got better acquainted. 15 minutes later Richard found me and said they are ready to go and would love to give me a lift! Yes! I hopped in the back with Richard and Jeanettes niece Emma (from London!) and we started our family vacation. We were talking so much Richard drove in the wrong direction for several miles and no one noticed. Once we started heading east (the right direction) we stopped at a waterfall and took a selfie. We kept joking about how they adopted me for the morning and I kept telling them how much I’ve been craving a family vacation all summer and how much I was enjoying our little national park road trip!

Thanks again fam!

Thanks again fam!

Richard and Jeannette were so kind and friendly. They live in Vancouver, B.C. so you can only imagine how excited I was about that (I plan to move there this winter). I asked a bunch of questions, and they asked a bunch more. They were really interested in the PCT and support my journey so much. It was a wonderful morning and it made me really thankful for how things worked out. Yeah sure I missed a spectacular section of the PCT, but it was only 20 miles and the trail ended up being closed for over a week, so a lot of hikers went through the same thing. Instead, I got to meet and connect with some of the nicest, funniest people. We exchanged information and Richard said to let him know when I cross the border. Well Richard, I plan on doing just that, and I can’t wait to share a victory beer with you and your family, because that victory wouldn’t be possible without the help of all the strangers who became friends, just like you both. Thanks again for helping turn a negative into a positive!

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And that was the Crater Lake experience. It was a good tiny break to catch up with some of the other hikers I haven’t seen in awhile. It was even more beneficial to hear MadDog say “you know it’s funny, the closer I get to Canada the harder it is mentally, and the harder it is to get out of my sleeping bag in the morning.” I’m so glad I’m not alone in that feeling. The bottom line is that we all have invested so much in this hike. There are not many of us left, most of the people who started in Mexico have gone home or have skipped sections. At this point, what could possibly make us quit? We have so much to lose if we break mentally, we’ve come so far and have given up so much. A lot of people are racing through Oregon because it’s so flat (comparatively) and because it’s the smallest state. Once we get to Washington I think a lot of people will start to once again take their time, because it’s the chute to Canada (the longest chute ever, but still a chute in my mind). It’s also (besides the Sierra) the highlight of the trail. We race through NorCal and Oregon so we can take our time in Washington, I’m excited to see if it actually that plays out that way.

All downhill from here!

All downhill from here!

I’ve been doing pretty okay, but the days just seem to last forever. I’m averaging 30 miles a day, hiking from 7-7 normally. The first 200 miles of Oregon trail has been pretty boring, there isn’t much water, and the mosquitoes are driving me to an early grave. Southern Oregon is not known to be spectacular, and I knew that coming in, but I still thought it would be a littleeee bit more exciting. We are in a warm forest all day. Sometimes, for 5 minutes, it spits us out on a ridge and we feel the breeze, get a little reprieve from the mosquitoes, and stand in awe of the beautiful mountains and lakes that have been there all along. Oregon, why so modest? Keeping us in a forest all day when all that beauty is just right past your trees? Okay fine, your forest can be quite magical, and I enjoy a lot of it, but I need more ridges. Ridges I say! Views! Make me work for it!

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After my fabulous morning with my new Canadian family, I hiked 20 miles before I found a place to camp. As I approached I saw a girl sketching in her notebook, we looked at each other quizzically and asked “are you thru-hiking? Northbound?” We had never met before. This is weird because I know just about everyone within a 4 day radius, and especially being another solo female (there are VERY few of us) we were both surprised we hadn’t met yet. Her name is Lefty, and I definitely heard of her because she was hiking with Stoic (Syracuse native, Seattle transplant that I met 600 miles ago and have been on the same schedule with since) for a long time, so Stoic would bring up her name a lot. To my dismay she is NOT a lefty, she got her name because she eats everyone’s leftovers hah! Point being, we talked all evening. We gossiped about the other hikers (obviously), I showed her all the new stuff my friends got me, talked about my “secret weapons,” and as I did a plank workout she didn’t judge me, she just kept chatting. It almost felt like we were in middle school and having a slumber party. It’s funny how quickly you can become friends with someone out here. Some people REALLY keep to themselves, but for the most part, it’s a really social trail, and everyone is so open and friendly. At what other point in my life would I stumble upon a person sketching and then start doing planks as we talk about burger bandannas and “trailmances” between people we barely know? It was one of those nights I went to bed so at peace with everything. The day was filled with so many new people, but also filled with incredible connections. It was just another day of new, exciting, and extremely abnormal experiences. It was one of those nights I went to bed whispering to myself “I love this life.”

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At one point you are faced with a decision, take the Oregon Skyline Trail (OST) (8 miles shorter, more water, less climbing, but more mosquitoes) or stay on the PCT. I didn’t give it much thought, I was going to stick with my pal the PCT. I actually said that to, “my pal the PCT” and I’m not embarrassed about it. Turns out, everyone else chooses the OST so therefore, I had the whole PCT to myself! Party! Now when I pee right next to the trail I don’t have to constantly look both ways, I am ALMOST certain no one is going to turn the corner and see my butt. If someone told me that the OST is way more beautiful than the PCT, I would have considered taking it. But after missing 20 miles due to the fire closure, I didn’t want to cut out another 8. Plus, I like climbing, and I don’t care that there isn’t much water, I’ll make it work, especially if it means less mosquitoes.

There wasn't "less" mosquitoes.

There wasn’t “less” mosquitoes.

Taking the PCT turned out to be the best decision. You see, 5 years ago our trail crew with AmeriCorps worked on the PCT and we worked in Diamond Peaks Wilderness on TWO separate occasions, so lots of memories! You know what section I would have missed if I changed my mind last minute to do the OST? YEP Diamond Peaks Wilderness! I would have missed all those miles trekking down memory lane! Guys, I can’t begin to describe what it was like to walk through the area we worked in. We made sooo many check-steps and I think I walked over each of them twice so I could test them out in each direction. One check-step in particular was my baby. I spent ALL DAY on ONE check-step, it must have drove my leaders nuts! We should have been doing about 4 a day, but I put so much love into this one check-step my nickname at the end of the summer was “One-a-day-check-step.” I wasn’t sure if I’d remember which one it was. Every time I thought I found it, I took a picture, but it never felt right. But then, then I found it. Something stopped me and after I hiked over it I turned around and laughed, I laughed so hard. For taking all day to make it, it’s not the best. BUT it’s still there and holding strong! Just at an odd angle is all. It kind of makes me love it more actually. The black sheep. Anyways, I was flooded with memories and laughed my way through those miles.

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Whoa! Where's the ice ax when ya need it!

Whoa! Where’s the ice ax when ya need it!

We made so many check-steps

We made so many check-steps

This is my babay

This is my babay

That summer, that program, those people, those mountains, completely changed the direction of my life. After that I stopped looking for desk jobs and started looking for opportunities to travel and live a life more suited for happiness, rather than for a paycheck. I owe every experience I’ve had since to that summer trail crew, and a lot of my best friends stemmed from there. Heck, it was when I was first introduced to the PCT, I had not a CLUE what the PCT was! I would have only recently learned about it like everyone else, thanks to the efforts of both Cheryl and Reese. That trail crew summer changed my worldddd.

Please, camp on rocks.

One night last week I raced through swarms of mosquitoes. We all say the phrase “eaten alive” a lot. But it’s never been more factual until now. They were eating me alive. I almost threw in the towel, collapsed, and let them have me. I couldn’t move fast enough, I couldn’t swing aggressively enough, they were the worst of the trail so far. Biting through my clothes and buzzing so loud, I couldn’t find one bit of relief. I should have just peed my pants because now I have bites in places that really shouldn’t be bitten. I finally got to Summit Lake, and it was beautiful. I was hoping for a breeze coming off the lake to minimize the skeeters, but no breeze tonight! Sorry Charlie! But I did find 2 fishing buddies camped there. They fished and kayaked all day and were prepping dinner and hanging by a nice fire. I went over to say hello and they immediately offered me a drink and dinner. I couldn’t believe my luck, after an awful end to my hike, I came across the relief I desperately needed. I graciously accepted, set up my tent, and joined them for dinner: Kale Pesto Pasta with Ricks homemade bacon. It was the best pasta dish I have ever had. Even Tim agreed on how good it was.

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We chatted a lot about nutrition and life and Rick told me his wife did the PCT in the mid 2000’s and will be so happy to hear he fed a thru-hiker! After a glass of Merlot, I raced into my tent (throughout dinner I had at least 30 mosquitoes on me at a time, even with the fire roaring, they were relentless). I was disgusted, somehow 17 mosquitoes got in. I spent the next 20 minutes using my dirty towelettes to smoosh these skeeters to a bloody death. I finally got them all, and finally let myself relax. It’s odd how TERRIFYING mosquitoes can be in large numbers. I sat in my tent staring at them in complete horror. I mean it’s bad enough I sleep every night in a structure shaped and sized like a coffin, so I don’t need any further help feeling the wrath of death at night. (This is false, I’m never scared at night, I sleep like a baby in my yellow coffin.) I ended up sleeping really well that night and as I left camp early the next morning Tim ran over and offered me a sip of his coffee before I left hah! How did he know I was secretly hoping there would be some sort of coffee offering come morning. 👍

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I got into the (very) small town of Lake Crescent after a rather painful 18 miles. My feet were super sore and I could feel new blisters sprouting so I decided to spend the night in town. Boy am I glad I did because they had a VHS Movie library in the laundry room! So many classics! I also had a microwave in my room so I went to the store and bought a potato and butter. I microwaved that potato so hard and slathered it in butter and never loved life so much. I also opened my resupply package from home and found a few extra treats in there!

Toughest decision of the summer

Toughest decision of the summer

Doing Great Awesome!

Doing Great Awesome!

Thanks bro!

Thanks bro!

I left town after lunch and did a fun 17 miles past tons of beautiful and big lakes. Best part? The mosquitoes weren’t even that bad! I felt like I was on a Oregon Lake Tour but there wasn’t a guide, it was free, and I was the only one signed up. I floated to camp and found a lovely spot right on Lake Charlton.

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What I look like when the mosquitoes aren't "that bad"

What I look like when the mosquitoes aren’t “that bad”

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Just when you think you're alone, a guy floats by in his canoe while you journal in your tent.

Just when you think you’re alone, a guy floats by in his canoe while you journal in your tent.

Anyone lose a toothbrush?

Anyone lose a toothbrush?

Saturday and Sunday I did about 31 miles each. The terrain was flat and the trail was perfectly soft. I moved just like how I pictured thru-hikers to move before I became one. It was a swift and effortless movement, a glide. I like to imagine myself as looking graceful and coordinated, but I’m sure I was stomping my feet and wobbling all over the place. Fine, I was probably all over the trail but in my head I moved like an Angel damnit!

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After a chilly wake-up next to Lake Charlton I hiked for 3 minutes before I heard “hey you want some hot coffee?” “Ummm YES.” There is a unpaved forest service road by the lake and this guy was car camping there for a few days. He is a trail angel and he goes by “Crazy Joe”…he used to work in Law and traveled all around the world, now he lives out of his car and gives free drinks to hikers. He said “one day I’ll have to find a job, but that day ain’t TODAY and it ain’t TOMORROW neither!” His volume and laugh were right on par with what one would expect out of someone named “Crazy Joe” and I ended up sitting with him for an hour. He gave me his old army tin canteen to drink out of, and it was the weirdest receptacle I’ve ever drank coffee from. I loved it. Crazy Joe told me about a “lava field” that was coming up in the next 80 miles and as if I didn’t already feel like I am part of the worlds longest video game, that confirmed it.

Crazy Joe!

Crazy Joe!

I camped that night on what looked like a mini helicopter pad. Most of the day was spent in the forest but the last 2.5 miles I climbed up 1,000′ and was finally able to see what it was all leading up to. I was so excited to break out of the forest, the mosquitoes were quite bad and it had a nasty warmth to it. As I climbed it got chilly and the breeze picked up, I was so excited to see what was up top.

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Can you tell I've been out here for 4 months?

Can you tell I’ve been out here for 4 months?

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Dinner that night was my favorite, “breakfast for dinner”…oatmeal with fresh-picked huckleberries (a very yummy part of my day) and a dollop of almond butter. Since I don’t cook breakfast or lunch and had sent myself a big bag of rolled oats in my latest package (that I packed in April, I don’t remember what is in any package so it’s always a surprise from my former self, very exciting) I had a couple B’s for D’s that section. I layered up because it must of dropped down to the low 30’s that night, Fall is in the air and it’s been a lot of cold nights and crisp mornings until the sun hits! What this means in my life is that it’s getting MUCH harder to get going by 7 BUT hiking during the day is the best because all of my “Fall” memories and nostalgia are surfacing and that’s good because I am ALL OUT of summer topics to think about! Truthfully, when things get really boring in there I always turn to my favorite thought: Christmas, all things Christmas. I’ve crafted a list of gifts for everyone in my family for the next 27 years. Next week I’ll start working on the list 28 years from now.

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A Christmas tree EATING another Christmas tree, craziness!

A Christmas tree EATING another Christmas tree, craziness!

Sunday was a top day for me. I’d throw it in the top 5 backcountry days this summer. I entered 3 Sisters Wilderness and couldn’t believe my eyes. Huge mountains, bright wildflowers, gentle streams, ripe huckleberries, an interesting lava field, more lakes, a nice chilly sunny breeze, and of course, butterflies. I was having fun hiking again. I didn’t need/want any distractions, I was so engaged with my surroundings that the day flew by. Around 4:00 I saw a sign for Trail Angels at a nearby camp 4 minutes off the trail. I found Karen and Harold from Eugene making hot dogs and offering beer and sodas. Their son, Duckee, is thru-hiking THIS summer (a week behind me, never met him) and they wanted to get into trail angeling to meet, feed, and support as many hikers as they can. They were so sweet and it came at a perfect time of day, I was 25 miles in and only had 5 more to go. I hung out for about an hour, had a hot-dog for the first time since I was 10, and then had a great last few miles. Well, that’s not entirely true, the last few miles were over a harsh lava field with rocks spanning over 150,000 years old, my feet hated me for the 2475939 time this summer, it was REALLY windy, the clouds turned eerily dark, and I really, really thought I was on Mars. Positive? Epic sunset and sunrise, and I didn’t get rained on. And I had “burgers” and Mac n’ Cheese for dinner and the rest of my Rolos (I know, who eats rolos?!? I think about how weird it is every time I eat one).

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Lake Break

Lake Break

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Thank you Karen and Harold!

Thank you Karen and Harold!

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So this huge blog comes down to Monday. I woke up to an amazing sunrise in a lava field and had an easy (but very chilly) 14.5 miles to the highway. My friend, and old trail crew leader, Kyra, just so happens to be traveling around Oregon visiting friends. I told her I’d be in Bend on Monday and she offered to both pick me up at the trail-head (37 miles from town, would have been a tough hitch) and also treat me to a hotel room. Friend of the year? Just wait. After apologizing for not having enough pop music prepared for me during the ride, we got to Bend and walked into a restaurant for lunch. BAM! SURPRISE!!! Camel (Dugan) was there! I think my first words were “DID YOU PASS ME?!?” I’m sure no one is surprised by this, I have a slight competitor in me. Turns out he is 150 miles behind me (took a lot of time off in Crater Lake for a friends wedding and other casualness). Kyra got a hold of him (we all initially met in 2011 out here for the trail crew summer) and he was like oh yeah! So he hiked to the nearest highway and hitched 70 MILES to Bend, stayed with a friend the night before and then surprised me at lunch. I haven’t seen any member of Mile 55 since late June, it was beyond amazing to see him. We caught up and as we walked to dinner that night we saw the Warriors! (Combat Vets that are on a sponsored thru-hike whom we’ve known since practically the first day). It was SO random, we got beers and then dinner from food trucks and then more beers. It was a blast. After the first few sips of the first beer I found myself dramatically telling the story everyone always wants to hear: The day I served VP Biden (and both sons) chili, burgers, and pie. It was so good to have so many close friends around, and the night ended with a slumber party in the motel room!

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Reppin' the 845

Reppin’ the 845

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Wait, is that RANT driving a truck? down a residential street 40 miles from the nearest trail access? What the

Wait, is that RANT driving a truck? down a residential street 40 miles from the nearest trail access? What the

The Warriors! Taking over BeastMasters apartment while he's at work haha

The Warriors! Taking over BeastMasters apartment while he’s at work haha

Maggie already captioned this "aww look, Team Orange and the Old Prospectors, you guys could be a band!"

Maggie already captioned this “aww look, Team Orange and the Old Prospectors, you guys could be a band!”

Pals

Pals

Kyra and Camel dropped me off at the car rental place after a solid continental breakfast (soooo much cereal!). They both got out and inspected the car to make sure it was up to safety standards. Camel even started smacking the seats to make sure their comfort level was up to snuff. After Kyra told me not to forget to adjust my mirrors 17 times, we said a sad goodbye and I hit the road! So very thankful for their friendship.

Kyra clothed us both, she also only allows awkward group photos

Kyra clothed us both, she also only allows awkward group photos

I will be off the trail for over a week (eeek!). Laura’s bachelorette party is in a cabin in Montana and there was never a doubt in my mind that I wouldn’t be there. I may not make the wedding, but damnit, I’ll be on that couch in Montana doing hot tub laps and eating all of the carbs! Again mom, I’m kidding, I’ll be at the wedding! Jeez.

Leaving the trail for over a week has been an exciting thought. I’m trying not to be too worried about my reentry next week; although all hikers can agree “the first day back sucks, it ALWAYS sucks.” Physically, I’ll be better than okay, I’ll actually have time to repair and rebuild some muscles this week. Mentally? Yeah, a bit nervous about that. I had such a good rhythm going, and tons of momentum, but I’ll get those back in a few days. Just got to stay positive! I absolutely cannot wait to see my sisters, hang with Laura’s lovely friends, drink wine and recite Claire quotes all weekend and laugh, laugh soooo darn much. A chorus of laughter is only a couple days away, and although Laura says all she wants me to do is sleep 15 hours a day, I don’t plan on sleeping even half of that over the course of the entire weekend. Time to hit the pavement, on 4 wheels, and with an insane amount of SNACKS! Can’t wait to see what the TOP hits are on the radio now a days!

LOL

LOL

Also, really loving Boise's enthusiasm

Also, really loving Boise’s enthusiasm (!)

 

 

Exit:California

Day: 108

Location: Noble Coffee Roasting, Ashland, Oregon (!)

Mile: 1,716.2

Avocado Count: 44

Shower Count: 24

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Adios monster state! The last 220 miles of California were amazing. I left Shasta on a Tuesday afternoon, hitching a ride with the daughter of the mother who drove me INTO Mt. Shasta. What are the odds! Fabulous family, that momma raised her daughter right!

I left Shasta really excited to get back on trail. After spending 3 nights in a motel room I was feeling spoiled and undeserving of all the luxuries, it was time to get back to the dirt n’ vert and earn my next town stop. I was given antibiotics for my kidney infection and they started working right away. They made me nauseous every morning but I never actually threw up, so it was a success. The amount of probiotics I stuffed my face with was outrageous. I was scared of any side effect, and since I haven’t been too responsible about filtering my water, I didn’t want my gut to be filled with bad and weak bacteria. I needed only the good and strong bacteria in there! So after many grass-fed yogurt, raw sauerkraut, and kombucha parties, I got back to hiking.

Phew, just in time!

Phew, just in time!

I would have left a day earlier if someone didn’t charge $110 to a Party City in Illinois on my credit card. The lady with Chase shut it down immediately and I started crying on the phone saying she needed to reactivate it because that was my only source of money. “I’ll pay for the fraudulent party!” I cried out to her with no luck. With $29 in cash, and still needing to resupply for the next section, I would have been a very, very undernourished hiker. I cried and cried and she didn’t budge. “it’s for your personal protection, Ms. McCloskey, this is for your personal protection.” BUT I NEED FOOD. hah! I calmed down and we came up with a solution, she would overnight my new card to my current motel and I would pray it would get there in time…oh, and that the owners of the motel didn’t mind. Everything worked out, and I now have access to my bank account again :).  I hope that Illinois thief at least threw a killer party.

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Real world stress. How do you guys do it everyday? Man, one problem with my credit card and I was in tears. You go from floating through the wilderness everyday and then you get to town, switch your phone on, and are immediately flooded with responsibilities. It’s usually all fun and good responsibilities, but when it involves finances and being on the phone with major companies? Awful, hats off to you all living the life of a civilian, I clearly cannot handle it.

All I need

All I need

California toes

California toes

Back at it! A little climb out of town and I ran into Wood-Rat and Gal Pal (a favorite trail name). They are all over the place hiking southbound. This is my second time running into them and we actually stood in the middle of the trail for a half hour chatting. None of us even took off our packs. It was a great reintroduction to the trail after being off of it for 3 days. I was gaining more confidence with every step and after 10 miles tossed up my tent. The next day is when I had my moment. My moment of “yes, this feels right, this feels fun.” I took a selfie so I would remember that moment forever and ever. I gave a loud shout off the ridge, don’t ask me what noise I made, or what words came out, because I honestly don’t remember. I just remember the feeling of joy.

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This whole section was a lot of steep climbs to ridges that left you breathless. Up 1200′ down 1200′. The whole week felt like a rollercoaster. Winding in and out of forests to tops of ridgelines overlooking bright blue lakes. It was incredible. I have a deep respect for areas that make you earn their views. At the time I was cursing their name, but now, I love them for it. Trinity Alps Wilderness –> Russian Wilderness –> Marble Mountain Wilderness. A hell of a trio to cruise through and finish up the tallest state on the flippin’ planet. Averaging 29 miles a day, my blisters started to subside, my feet were no longer sore, and I started gaining a lot of rhythm, I was groovin’ my way to the state border!

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Indian Paintbrush, my favorite wildflower! State flower of?!?!? WYOMING!

Indian Paintbrush, my favorite wildflower! State flower of?!?!? WYOMING!

Aftet 100 miles I stopped in Etna for lunch. It’s known to be a hard hitch because there is no traffic on the road and the town is 13 miles away. After 45 minutes a car came by and the 8 of us jumped up and stuck out our thumbs. It was the only action of the hour! He stopped and Monique (NZ) and Bert (Belgium) squeezed in the back of his pick-up and fortunately, a much nicer vehicle stopped right after him and fit 4 of us in his truck. Etna is a tiny old mining town, I couldn’t wait to explore it’s character. I went to the café on the corner, got some lunch and then hit up the market because I was short a days worth of food. The same guy caught me as I was leaving the market and offered me a ride back up to the trail, score!

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Bert is a tall fella, he did not enjoy this seat very much

Bert is a tall fella, he did not enjoy this seat very much

I hiked the rest of the day with Maui (known for hiking in board shorts) and Juice (electrical engineer). It was today where I met a lot of the people that I’d be surrounded by the next several days. It was a fun group, and it’s always good to get acquainted as quickly as possible because you pass each other so frequently throughout the day. Also, it’s nice to hear a “ohhhh WUDD-UP toe touch!” instead of more introductions. Familiar faces are a really, really, helpful sight out here. Any break from being inside my mind is welcomed, I’m starting to drive myself crazy. By the way if anyone has too many things to think about, let me know. Outsource your thoughts to me, you won’t regret it. I’ll report back with a thorough analysis.

I'm in the weeds!

I’m in the weeds!

Trail?

Trail?

No one actually needs water here, we just want to sit and hang

No one actually needs water here, we just want to sit and hang

Seiad (sigh-ad) Valley is a town of 350, and fun fact from Early Bird and the Worm (awesome couple from Manitoba), its own state. They are too cool for California so they decided to be the State of Jefferson. 51 states folks, we got 51 states! Seiad Valley is literally on the PCT, you leave the forest and walk 6.4 miles along a paved road and pick berries to keep you from wanting to kill yourself. You finally hit “town” and it’s one of the best feelings in the world. “Town” is a café, post office, and general store — all in the same building. It’s exactly how all of America should be in my opinion, need we more? After walking the road with Monique and Bert, I saw Early Bird and the Worm at the café and immediately sat down and ordered coffee. They had milkshakes and coffee and were awaiting their egg, bacon and pancake breakfasts. I couldn’t have been happier.

The paved PCT

The paved PCT

Blackberries and raspberries!

Blackberries and raspberries!

Early bird and the worm!

Early bird and the Worm!

The café is famous for its Pancake Challenge, 5 Pancakes, all 1lb. each. 5 pounds of Pancakes, does everyone else’s stomach hurt from the thought? No hiker has won the challenge in 8 years, and no human has completed it in 4. I love pancakes; if I knew I was going to die within the next 5 minutes I would probably order a tall stack and go out with a bang. CityTime has been talking about doing this challenge for the last 300 miles. His confidence was high, and although I wasn’t there to see it, he said he ate 3 out of the 5 pounds. He got to take the rest of the pancakes back to the RV park (3 steps away from the tri-building) and ate the rest for dinner. He was really proud of himself, but even seeing him the day after he was still rubbing his stomach and moaning. I remember working at the Bunnery and my friend was scraping off a customers plate and the pancakes just stuck to it when she flipped the plate upside down. She was like “look Jules, these things don’t even budge when I wave around the plate, can you imagine what they are doing to the inside of your stomach?” We shared a good laugh, and as I still enjoy a good pancake from time to time, I did not attempt the pancake challenge. No one else I knew did the challenge, but everyone ate themselves to sickness at that café. A bunch of hikers were just laying around too full to function, let alone hike. It was an all to familiar sight, but that’s part of the thru-hiking culture. We hike so much, and burn so many calories, that we cannot control ourselves when we get to town. When you have fresh food AND someone else cooking it for you, you tend to go all out. It’s one perk of this life for sure, being able to get away with eating a lot of junk in the short-term. But thinking about the long-term possible effects? Bad news bears.

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After breakfast I scooted over to the post office and received a couple packages and letters from family and friends! I got a few snacks for the road and hung out at the picnic tables with the other hikers. The climb out of Seiad Valley, ohhhhh the climb out of Seiad Valley. I heard about (and contributed to) it all week. 4,500′ in 8 miles, completely exposed. I think I was the only person looking forward to it. It was 2:30, 99 degrees, and as I packed up my stuff everybody looked at me like I was a lunatic. No one else planned to leave until at least 5:00. I couldn’t help myself, I was really excited for it and I’m not good at sitting around, so I left. It was a sick form of fun, I loved it. I cruised up the trail sweating more than I have all summer. I pitched my tent on a really windy ridge, being careful to pin down my stuff so none of it flew away. I knew the wind would die down with the sun, so I stuck it out. It was my last night in California and I wanted it to be epic.

Good thing it was partly cloudy!

Good thing it was partly cloudy!

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'Mornin'

Mornin’

26 miles to Oregon! You couldn’t get me there fast enough. I got to the border and saw Donna Saufley (a trail angel who runs Hiker Heaven way back in SoCal!) I stayed at her house back in April and it was cool to see her out here finishing up a large section of the trail! After a huge photo-shoot I hiked 4 more miles and celebrated Oregon with a boxed pie I picked up in Seiad Valley and a nip of vodka I’ve been carrying for quite some time. First sleep in Oregon!

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Donna Saufley! A trail angel legend!

Donna Saufley! A trail angel legend!

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Oregon!

Oregon!

I woke up super early (for me). I was 25 miles from Ashland, the most anticipated trail town on my list. I was in such a good mood that I fired up some coffee as I packed my things, something I have only done 3 times all summer and WOW is hiking easier when fully caffienated. I had one sip and poured the rest in my Gatorade bottle for the road. 9 hours later, I took my final sip. Coffee over the course of 25 miles rules. It was 5:30am when hikers started passing my campsite, I was shouting “good morning, welcome to Oregon!” to all my friends who camped a mile or 2 back. You should have seen the gusto we all hiked with that day. There was about 8 of us, and we were flying. With 11 miles left there was a cooler of trail magic! All different flavors of soda that we dove into. We took a break, chugged down the carbonated goodness, and resumed our stride. We were all so happy and made it to the highway by 2:30pm. It was one of my favorite days on trail.

My fancy snobbish instant coffee that makes me FLY

My fancy snobbish instant coffee that makes me FLY

Water tied to a tree, don't mind if I do!

Water tied to a tree, don’t mind if I do!

Monique and Bert enjoying some cola!

Monique and Bert enjoying some cola! And chairs!

The hitch into Ashland took about 30 minutes, and it was a hot 30 minutes! Finally, Ray pulled over and completely reorganized his truck to fit me in. He was coming back from a camping trip and boy was he fully stocked. I sat in the passenger seat with my feet hoisted up on bags of rocks. Ray is a geologist and is in between projects, so he was out collecting rocks for fun. He even gave me a tour of Ashland before dropping me at the motel, which was awesome! I love getting a local tour, so many fun facts! That day I only had 2 energy bars to eat, it was the last of my food so you can say I probably didn’t pack enough. But it didn’t matter how hungry I was because Ray took me to all the parks and told me about lithia water and the Shakesspeare Festival and more fun facts about rocks. He even gave me his Geologist business card and told me to call him if I needed a ride anywhere around town. Basically, Ray is such a nice guy and offered to be my personal tour guide of Ashland for my short stay. Gosh I love the people I’ve met during this hike.

Lithia water fountains! So cool

Lithia water fountains! So cool

Southern Oregon University

Southern Oregon University

I have hit my rhythm and my body feels great, but I didn’t want to push my luck so I still took a zero (day-off) in Ashland. It’s been phenomenal. I walked downtown and went into every cafe, store, library, and market. I ate a ton of healthy food and a ton of butter. Perfect. Oregon is said to be a really fast section because it finally flattens out. I’ll be the judge of that. I just bought new shoes and only have 2 minor blisters to doctor up each morning. I have what I think is nerve damage in my right shoulder, it’s been in pain since May — only hurting when my pack is at a certain weight so I am really trying to keep it light, because well, it hurts. The shoulder pain is something I plan on getting checked out right after the trail, but it’s obviously been tolerable up until this point so I’ve just been doing what I can to not make it worse.

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Life is good when your day ends at a lake

I am so excited for the state change, and I’m not alone. The entries in the trail register at the border all basically say the same thing…”California I love you, but enough already, can’t wait for Oregon!” That made me feel better because I felt guilty sometimes dreaming of Oregon while still hiking through California. “Love the one your with!” Right? hah anyways, the mosquitoes are raging here in Oregon but other than that I am 100% looking forward to the change in trail and all the stops along the way! Holy cow, I can’t believe I walked the length of California, who does that?

For everyone following closely along, here is an update on the Mile 55 Crew:

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Spoon and Chuckles are still eating brunch where we last camped together, mile 968.4 – Smedberg Lake. Spoon is continuing to make his argument that the lake is in fact, Jewish, while Chuckles knows it’s probably true but plays devils advocate just for good conversation. They are on their 159th bowl of granola.

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Centerfold has returned to Southern California after a major relapse in his Cactus Cooler addiction. Cactus Cooler is an orange-pineapple flavored soda found only in Southern California, and Centerfold has been the companies only customer this year after discovering it in a trail magic cooler in the desert. He also has a package at HikerTown that he needs to go back and grab, gosh, what a burden he was that day.

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Camel has awkwardly configured his tall lean body to fit the only shade offered in Northern California. When not taking a nap on trail, you can find him in theatres across trail towns, watching Finding Dory for the 3rd, 4th, 5th….time.

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Both Centerfolds and Camels ego have taken a major blow by not being able to catch the girl who was peeing blood. To gain back some grit, they are meeting each other back at Mile 55 where they will hike it one more time, totaling more PCT miles than anyone else on trail.

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Clearly, I miss them a whole lot, but this solo experience has been an incredible growth period and I know, when the time is right, that I’ll hear our call from behind. And then hugs, lots of hugs. Maybe even one for Chuckles.

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Okay fine seriously?

Spoon/Chuckles: 1 week behind

Centerfold: 3-4 days behind

Camel: a few hours behind (dun dun dunnnn)